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Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [644]

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from Dagebüll Hafen (change in Niebüll; one-way €8.85). The trip to Wittdün usually goes via Wyk on Föhr and takes 1½ hours.

For information on getting to Amrum from Sylt, Click here.

Buses take you around the island; there are bike-rental places in every village.


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HELGOLAND

04725 / pop 1333

Helgoland’s former rulers, the British, really got the better deal in 1891 when they swapped it for then German-ruled Zanzibar. But Germans today are very fond of this lonesome North Sea outcrop of red sandstone rock and its fresh air and warm weather, courtesy of the Gulf Stream.

The 80m-tall Lange Anna (Long Anna) rock on the island’s southwest edge is a compelling sight, standing alone in the ocean. There are also WWII bunkers and tunnels to explore, and resurging numbers of Atlantic grey seals. Cycling is not permitted on the tiny 4.2-sq-km island.

As Helgoland is still covered by an agreement made in 1840 and economically isn’t part of the EU, most visitors indulge in some duty-free shopping in the outlets lining the main drag, Lung Wai (‘long way’). To swim, many head to neighbouring Düne, a blip in the ocean that is popular with nudists. Little boats (one-way €4) make regular trips between May and mid-October from Helgoland’s northeastern landing stage.

Helgoland makes an easy and enjoyable day trip, but if you want to stay, the Kurverwaltung ( 01805-643 737; www.helgoland.de; Lung Wai 28; 9am-noon Mon-Fri & by appointment) can help find a room or tent pitch.


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Getting There & Away

For high-speed ferries from Hamburg, Click here. Reederei Rahder ( 04834-3612; www.rahder.de, in German) and Helgoland Reisen ( 04834-938 220; www.helgolandreisen.de, in German) have ferries from Büsum (return from €34 and €36 respectively). The latter also has ferries from Cuxhaven in Lower Saxony (return from €38). Other ferry services include Helgoline ( 0180-522 1445; www.helgoline.de, in German) from Cuxhaven (return from €36.50) and Helgoland Linie ( 01805-228 661; www.helgolandlinie.de, in German) from Wilhelmshaven in Lower Saxony (return from €36.50).

Adler Schiffe ( 987 00; www.adler-schiffe.de, in German) puts together full-day trips departing from the Westerland Bahnhof, Sylt (€45.50), which include around four hours on Helgoland.

Alternatively, you can fly from Büsum (one-way/return/day trip €80.50/159/149) and from Bremerhaven in Bremen (€86/170/155) with OLT ( 0471-771 88; www.olt.de), or from the small Hamburg-Uetersen airfield with Air Hamburg ( 04070-708 890; www.air-hamburg.de, in German; from €79 one-way).


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Mecklenburg–Western Pomerania

* * *


Getting There & Around

MECKLENBURGER SEENPLATTE

SCHWERIN

Orientation

Information

Sights

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking

Entertainment

Getting There & Around

LUDWIGSLUST

GÜSTROW

Sights & Activities

Getting There & Around

NEUBRANDENBURG

Orientation

Information

Sights & Activities

Sleeping

Eating & Drinking

Entertainment

Getting There & Away

MÜRITZ NATIONAL PARK

Neustrelitz

COASTAL MECKLENBURG

ROSTOCK

Orientation

Information

Sights

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking

Entertainment

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

BAD DOBERAN & COASTAL RESORTS

Sights & Activities

Getting There & Around

WISMAR

Orientation

Information

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating & Drinking

Getting There & Around

DARSS-ZINGST PENINSULA

WESTERN POMERANIA

STRALSUND

Orientation

Information

Sights

Activities

Tours

Festivals & Events

Sleeping

Eating

Drinking & Entertainment

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

RÜGEN ISLAND

Orientation

Information

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

Binz

South Rügen

North Rügen

HIDDENSEE ISLAND

GREIFSWALD

Orientation & Information

Sights

Sleeping & Eating

Getting There & Away

Getting Around

USEDOM ISLAND

Getting There & Away

* * *

All clichés aside, this spectacular stretch of the Baltic coast is certainly one of Germany’s better-kept secrets.

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