Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [647]
The tourist office organises several guided walking tours in German, including 90-minute city tours (per person €4.50; 11am) and evening walks (per person €6; 8.30pm Thu Apr-Oct, 6.30pm Thu Nov-Mar) from Weinhaus Wöhler (right).
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Festivals & Events
The highlight of Schwerin’s cultural calendar is the Schlossfestspiele (www.theater-schwerin.de): open-air opera concerts performed on a stage erected in front of the theatre and state museum in June and July. Punters gather across the water in the Burggarten to listen in.
From June to December, concerts and events are held across the state as part of the Festspiele Mecklenburg-Vorpommern ( 591 8585; www.festspiele-mv.de).
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Sleeping
DJH hostel ( 326 0006; www.jh-schwerin.de; Waldschulweg 3; dm under/over 26yr incl breakfast €17.50/20.50; ) Though popular with school groups, this 90-bed hostel is in a peaceful, leafy location south of the city centre. Take bus 14.
Pension am Theater ( 593 680; www.pensionamtheater.m-vp.de, in German; Theaterstrasse 1-2; s €52-68, d €69-90 incl breakfast; ) In the shadow of the huge theatre building and (just) within sight of the castle, this privately run establishment boasts cheerful, stylish and spacious rooms, although you may miss little things like soap in the bathrooms.
Zur guten Quelle ( 565 985; www.zur-guten-quelle.m-vp.de, in German; Schusterstrasse 12; s €51-55, d €74-82, f €95-107; ) One of Schwerin’s prettiest half-timbered houses, bang in the heart of the Altstadt. Zur guten Quelle is best known for its cosy traditional restaurant, but it also has half a dozen simple but comfortable rooms. If you’re staying here, a two-course evening meal is a bargain at €10 per person, per night.
Alt Schweriner Schankstuben ( 592 5313; www.schankstuben.de, in German; Am Schlachtermarkt 9-13; s €55-65, d €78-94, f €132-140 incl breakfast; ) Another historic half-timbered house in the Altstadt. Sixteen charming rooms are tucked above Schankstuben’s restaurant, which opens to a flower-filled terrace. It’s renowned for its regional specialities; romantics can go all-out with a candlelight dinner (€28 per person) and/or champagne breakfast (€8.50 per person).
Hotel Speicher am Ziegelsee ( 500 30; www.speicher-hotel.de, in German; Speicherstrasse 11; s €77-100, d €97-130 incl breakfast; ) This tall heritage-listed former warehouse on the waterfront with its own pier has been fitted out with streamlined rooms in Mediterranean hues. You can unwind in its sauna, solarium, gym, English bar and fine-dining restaurant, whose cuisine is also inspired by the Med.
Hotel Niederländischer Hof ( 591 100; www.niederlaendischer-hof.de; Karl-Marx-Strasse 12-13; s €87-124, d €125-170 incl breakfast; ) Overlooking the Pfaffenteich, this regal 1901-established hotel has 32 elegant rooms with marble bathrooms, a library warmed by an open fire, and a lauded restaurant.
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Eating
Die Suppenstube ( 0172-382 5038; Puschkinstrasse 55; mains €3.20-4; 11am-5pm Mon-Fri; ) Funky stainless-steel light fittings made from cutlery, stripped floorboards and bare tables provide a minimalist contrast with the historic half-timbered walls of this house on the edge of the Markt. The menu is equally sparing but stylish – eight steaming kettles of homemade soups (with optional sliced sausage), and three desserts (including a deliciously rich chocolate pudding).
Friedrich’s ( 555 473; Friedrichstrasse 2; mains €7.50-15.50; 11am-midnight; ) Spilling onto an alfresco terrace with water views of the Pfaffenteich, this Parisian-style cafe has art-deco trimmings, a casual atmosphere and an uncomplicated selection of brasserie fare including salads, fish and grills.
Weinhaus Wöhler ( 555 830; Puschkinstrasse 26; mains €8.50-19.90;