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Jesus (Judas is locked out). Zodiac symbols and moon phases feature in the centre, while the lower section has a disc that tells the exact day on which Easter falls in any given year. The replaceable discs are accurate for 130 years – the current one expires in 2017, and the University of Rostock already has a new one ready. Look out too for the unusually tall, organically shaped baroque organ (1770).

NEUER MARKT

Rostock’s large, open central square is dominated by the splendid 13th-century Rathaus. The building’s Baroque facade was added in 1727 after the original brick Gothic structure collapsed.

Opposite the Rathaus is a series of restored gabled houses and a stylised, sea-themed fountain, the Möwenbrunnen (2001), by artist Waldemar Otto. The explanatory plaque says the four figures are Neptune and his sons, although many believe they represent the four elements.

KRÖPELINER STRASSE & UNIVERSITÄTSPLATZ

Kröpeliner Strasse, a broad, lively, cobblestone pedestrian mall lined with 15th- and 16th-century burghers’ houses, runs from Neuer Markt west to Kröpeliner Tor.

At the centre of the mall is Universitätsplatz, and its centrepiece, the crazy rococo Brunnen der Lebensfreude (Fountain of Happiness). True to its name, the square is lined with university buildings, including the handsome terracotta Hauptgebäude (1866–70), which replaced the famous ‘White College’. The university itself is the oldest on the Baltic (founded in 1419), and currently has about 11,000 students.

At the northern side of Universitätsplatz are the Five-Gables Houses, modern interpretations of the residences that lined the square before WWII.

At the southwestern end is the Kloster Zum Heiligen Kreuz, a convent established in 1270 by Queen Margrethe of Denmark. Today it houses the city’s cultural history museum, the Kulturhistorische Museum Rostock ( 203 590; www.kulturhistorisches-museum-rostock.de, in German; Klosterhof 18; admission free; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun), with an interesting collection including Victorian furniture and a few sculptures by Ernst Barlach.

CITY WALLS & GATES

Today only two of 32 gates, plus a small brick section, remain of the old city wall. The 55m-high Kröpeliner Tor stands at the western end of Kröpeliner Strasse. From here, you can follow the Wallanlagen (city walls) through the pleasant park to Wallstrasse and the other surviving gate, the Steintor.

PETRIKIRCHE

The Gothic Petrikirche ( 211 01; Alter Markt; tower admission €2; 9am-noon & 2-5pm Mon-Fri, 11am-5pm Sat & Sun) has a 117m-high steeple – a mariner’s landmark for centuries – that was restored in 1994, having been missing since WWII. You can climb the steps or take the lift up to the viewing platform.

SCHIFFFAHRTSMUSEUM

Rostock’s excellent Schifffahrtsmuseum (Ship Museum; 1283 1364; www.schifffahrtsmuseum-rostock.de, in German; MS Dresden, IGA Park, Liegeplatz Schmarl; admission €4, park only €1; 10am-6pm Tue-Sun) is moored on the shores of the flower-filled IGA Park on the northwest riverbank. Aboard the ship, there’s a rundown on shipping from the Hanseatic period to today, plus the chance to play captain and other hands-on activities.

Take the S-Bahn to Lütten Klein and then bus 31 or 35.

WARNEMÜNDE

Warnemünde is all about promenading, eating fish, sipping cocktails, and lazing in a Strandkörbe (sheltered straw ‘beach basket’ seat) on its long, wide and startlingly white beach.

Walking from Warnemünde’s train station along Alter Strom, the boat-lined main canal, you’ll pass a row of quaint cottages housing restaurants. Then you turn the corner into Am Leuchtturm and Seestrasse and – bam! – it hits you. Sundown, when the crowds have abated slightly, is a memorable time to be here.

For a fabulous view from above, climb the spiralling 135-step wrought-iron and granite staircase of the 1898-built lighthouse (adult/concession/family €2/1/4; 10am-6.30pm May-Sep).

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Tours

The tourist office runs 90-minute guided walking tours (in German; €4) at 2pm daily in summer (11am Sunday).

Reederei Schütt ( 690 953, 0173-917