Germany (Lonely Planet, 6th Edition) - Andrea Schulte-Peevers [675]
Holiday Flats & Homes
If you want to get to know a place better, renting for a week or two can be ideal, especially for budget-minded travellers, self-caterers, families and small groups. Tourist offices have lists of holiday flats (Ferienwohnungen or Ferien-Appartements). Some Pensionen, inns, hotels and even farmhouses also rent out apartments. Stays under a week usually incur a surcharge, and there’s almost always a ‘cleaning fee’ payable at the end. A central online booking service is www.atraveo.de.
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SMOKE & MIRRORS
Germany was one of the last countries in Europe to legislate smoking, which it did in 2007–08, and, by all accounts, it hasn’t done a very effective job. Each of the 16 states was allowed to introduce its own antismoking laws, creating a rather confusing patchwork. In most states, smoking is a no-no in schools, hospitals, airports, train stations and other public facilities. But when it comes to bars, pubs, cafes and restaurants, every state does it just a little differently. Bavaria has the toughest laws, which ban smoking practically everywhere, although an exception was made for Oktoberfest tents; so-called ‘smoking clubs’ are also permitted. In most states, lighting up is allowed in designated smoking rooms. However, in July 2008 Germany’s highest court ruled this scheme unconstitutional because it discriminates against one-room establishments. These may now allow smoking provided they serve no food and only admit patrons over 18. So far only Berlin has introduced this compromise, but other states are likely to follow suit. In any case, enforcement has been sporadic, to say the least, despite the threat of fines. The situation is fluid.
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Hostels
DJH HOSTELS
Germany’s 600 Hostelling International–affiliated hostels are run by the Deutsches Jugendherbergswerk (DJH; www.jugendherberge.de) and are open to people of all ages, although they’re especially popular with school and youth groups, families and sports clubs. Most have recently been modernised but often can’t quite shake that institutional feel. Still, smaller dorms and private rooms for families and couples, often with private bathroom, are increasingly common. Almost all hostels can accommodate mobility-impaired travellers.
Rates in gender-segregated dorms or in family rooms range from €13 to €29 per person, including linen and breakfast; optional lunch and dinner cost around €5 extra each. People over 27 are charged an extra €3 or €4. If space is tight, hostels may give priority to people under 27, except for those travelling as a family.
Unless you’re a member of your home country’s HI association, you need to buy either a Hostelling International Card for €15.50 (valid for one year) or six individual stamps costing €3.10 per night. Both are available at any DJH hostel. Around half of German DJH hostels can now be booked online at www.jugendherberge.de and about 60 can also be booked on the HI website (www.hihostels.com). Alternatively, just contact the hostel directly by phone, fax or email.
INDEPENDENT HOSTELS
Germany was slow to embrace the backpacker hostel concept, but in recent years indies have been popping up all over the country. Although they sometimes accept school groups, they generally cater for individual travellers, welcome people of all ages and attract a more convivial, international crowd than DJH hostels. Most now offer private quarters with bathrooms, and even apartments with kitchens, alongside multi-bed dorms, making them an excellent budget choice even if you’ve traded your backpack for a rolling suitcase.
No two hostels are alike, but typical facilities include communal kitchens, bars, cafes, TV lounges, lockers, internet terminals and laundry facilities. There are no curfews, and staff tend to be savvy, energetic, eager to help and multilingual. Dorms are mixed, although women-only dorms can usually be set up on request. Most hostels