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Vegetable oil spray for the pan

Salt for the pasta water

½ pound elbow macaroni

2 tablespoons butter

1½ tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour

Heaping ¼ teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon dry mustard

A big dash of cayenne pepper (up to 1/8 teaspoon)

2 cups milk

1 cup (packed) grated sharp Cheddar cheese

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

2 slices whole wheat bread, toasted and crumbled (see “Toasted Breadcrumbs,” Chapter 3: Pastas)

1. Spray a 1-quart gratin dish or an 8-inch square baking pan with vegetable oil spray, and set aside.

2. Set the oven rack on the highest rung that will fit your baking pan (this will help the top brown nicely) and preheat the oven to 350°F.

3. Put a medium-sized pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a tablespoon of salt. Place a large colander in the sink. When the water boils, add the macaroni, keeping the heat high. Cook for the amount of time recommended on the package, tasting the macaroni toward the end of the suggested time to be sure it is not getting overcooked. When it is just tender enough to bite into comfortably but not yet mushy, dump the pasta-and-water into the colander. Run cold water over the pasta to bring it to room temperature so that it stops cooking. Shake to mostly drain (it’s okay to leave some water clinging). Leave it in place—you’ll need it in just a few minutes.

4. To make the cheese sauce, melt the butter over low heat, in the same pot you used to cook the macaroni. When the butter is melted, use a whisk to beat in the flour, salt, mustard, and cayenne. Keep whisking for a few seconds, until the mixture forms a thick paste. Then slowly drizzle in the milk, still vigorously whisking, so the sauce becomes smooth as the milk is incorporated. Keep cooking and stirring (switching from the whisk to a wooden spoon) for 2 to 3 minutes, or until the mixture is velvety, thick, and smooth. Sprinkle in about two-thirds each of the Cheddar and the Parmesan, and stir until the cheeses are fully blended in. Remove the pot from the heat.

5. Add the cooked macaroni and the remaining Cheddar to the cheese sauce. Stir until all the pasta is well coated. Transfer the mixture to the prepared baking pan, and top with the breadcrumbs and the remaining Parmesan. Set the pan on a foil-lined baking tray to catch any drips, and bake, uncovered, for about 20 minutes, or until bubbly around the edges and crisp and golden on top. Serve hot.

GET CREATIVE

Use whole wheat macaroni instead of white.

Mince a medium-sized clove of garlic and add it when melting the butter.

Stir up to 2 teaspoons prepared horseradish and/or prepared mustard (in addition to the dry mustard) into the cheese sauce before adding the pasta.

If you have cooked broccoli or cauliflower on hand, add up to 2 cups (chopped) when mixing the pasta with the sauce; or add up to 2 cups chopped raw broccoli or cauliflower to the macaroni during the last minute of cooking.

Mix a handful of chopped walnuts with the breadcrumbs before sprinkling them over the mac and cheese.

You might want to make this cheese sauce separately, to serve on top of cooked vegetables or potatoes. It’s multipurpose!

linguine with clam sauce

Makes 2 to 3 servings

Fresh clams, cooked with a little white wine, garlic, and onion, create a classic pasta sauce that will wow you with its complex flavor. Don’t be put off by the idea of buying and cooking fresh clams. It’s really quite foolproof and actually kind of fun. A note on timing: Ideally, you want the hot pasta and just-opened clams to be done at about the same time, so check the pasta package for its suggested cooking time and calculate accordingly. It’s fine if the pasta is done a few minutes before the clams, because you can reheat it a bit when you add it to the clams and sauce.

Salt for the pasta water

½ pound linguine or spaghetti

3 tablespoons olive oil (plus a little extra for the hot pasta)

½ cup minced onion

¼ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons minced garlic (about 2 good-sized cloves)

Big pinch of red pepper flakes