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3 large eggs

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese (plus extra to pass at the table)

¼ teaspoon minced garlic (about half a small clove)

A handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley

1/8 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

6 ounces (about 6 strips) bacon

Salt for the pasta water

¾ pound spaghetti

2 tablespoons olive oil

1. Crack the eggs into a large bowl and beat them lightly with a whisk until you no longer see bits of egg white. Add the Parmesan, garlic, parsley, and black pepper, and continue whisking to combine everything. Set aside.

2. Cook the bacon in a skillet or in the microwave (see Chapter 8: Party Snacks) until it is crisp; then let it cool and break it into ¼-inch pieces.

3. While the bacon is browning, put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a tablespoon of salt. Place a large colander in the sink. When the water boils, add the spaghetti, keeping the heat high. Cook for the amount of time recommended on the package, tasting a strand toward the end of the suggested time to be sure it is not getting overcooked. When the pasta is just tender enough to bite into comfortably but not yet mushy, ladle out and save a generous cup of the pasta water, then dump the remaining water-and-pasta into the colander. Shake to mostly drain (it’s okay to leave some water clinging).

4. Working quickly, add the hot pasta to the bowl containing the egg mixture and stir it immediately with tongs or a fork to coat the pasta thoroughly. Add the olive oil, the bacon, and 2 tablespoons of the reserved pasta water and stir to combine. The sauce should have a thick, creamy consistency. If the pasta looks dry or sticky, add another tablespoon or two of the pasta water. Serve right away, passing around additional Parmesan, plus a pepper mill.

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GET CREATIVE

Use a good, thick-cut bacon or Italian-style pancetta, which is not smoked and has a sweeter, more delicate flavor than bacon.

You can also make this with turkey bacon or "veggie" bacon.

Pass a shaker of red pepper flakes at the table.

Sauté some sliced mushrooms in olive oil, and add them to the pasta along with the bacon.

Stir a few tablespoons of heavy cream into the pasta just before serving (and add a little less reserved pasta water).

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rigatoni al forno with roasted asparagus and onions

Makes 3 to 4 servings

Baked pasta dishes are great for bringing to someone else’s place. This one is especially suited for that purpose because it tastes as good warm or at room temperature as it does hot. This recipe uses a single pan to first roast the vegetables in olive oil (which gives them amazingly deep, sweet, complex flavor) and then to bake the pasta. The other big flavor secret here is a generous amount of balsamic vinegar, which reduces and intensifies in the oven. If you like, cut one of the onions into smaller chunks (½-inch or smaller) and the other into larger (¾-inch) pieces. The smaller ones will become part of the sauce, and the larger ones will add a slightly (and delightfully) crunchy texture.

Salt for the pasta water

4 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium onions, cut into 1-inch chunks

1 pound asparagus (about ½-inch diameter), trimmed and cut diagonally into 2-inch pieces (see Chapter 7: Sides)

½ pound rigatoni or penne pasta (or any kind of tube shape)

1 teaspoon minced garlic (1 good-sized clove)

½ cup grated Parmesan cheese

½ cup balsamic vinegar

½ teaspoon salt

2 slices whole wheat bread, toasted and crumbled (see “Toasted Breadcrumbs," opposite)

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Adjust the oven rack to the center position, and preheat the oven to 425°F (375°F if you’ll be using a glass pan). Put a large pot of cold water to boil over high heat, and add a tablespoon of salt. Place a large colander in the sink.

2. Pour 3 tablespoons of the olive oil into a 9-by 13-inch baking pan, and add the onions and asparagus. Shake and tilt the pan to get all the vegetables coated with