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Up to ¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Cornbread (recipe follows)

1. Place a soup pot or a Dutch oven over medium heat. After about a minute, add the olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion, chili powder, cumin, and ¼ teaspoon of the salt. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes, or until the onion softens.

2. Stir in the carrot, celery, and remaining ½ teaspoon salt, and reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook, stirring occasionally, for about 15 minutes, or until the vegetables are very soft.

3. Add the vinegar, garlic, and bell pepper. Cook for another 5 minutes, stirring often. Meanwhile, set a colander in the sink and pour in the beans; give them a quick rinse and allow them to drain.

4. Add the beans and the crushed and diced tomatoes (with all their liquid) to the pot. Bring to a boil, then turn the heat all the way down to the lowest possible setting. Cover the pot with the lid slightly askew and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes.

5. Grind in some black pepper to taste, and serve hot, with the cornbread alongside.

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GET CREATIVE

For four-alarm chili, add a big pinch or two of red pepper flakes along with the onion. You can also pass a shaker of red pepper flakes at the table so people can add their own.

Top each serving with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt; some grated Cheddar, jack, or pepper jack cheese; a spoonful of salsa; finely diced red onion; and/or some minced cilantro and/or parsley.

Garnish with Peppy Pepitas (Chapter 8: Party Snacks).

Add up to a cup of pitted black olives along with the beans.

Substitute 1 can of corn, drained (or 2 cups frozen or fresh corn kernels) for one of the cans of beans.

Stir in a tablespoon of Dijon mustard along with the vinegar for extra-tangy flavor.

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cornbread

Makes 6 servings

Use regular fine-milled cornmeal for this, not the coarser polenta. If you don’t have any vegetable oil spray on hand, use a little softened butter to grease the pan instead.

Also, you could swap 1 cup buttermilk for the milk-plus-vinegar.

Vegetable oil spray for the pan

1 cup cornmeal

1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

¼ cup sugar

3 tablespoons butter

1 cup milk

2 teaspoons vinegar (any kind)

1 large egg, lightly beaten

1. Adjust the oven rack to the center position, and preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly coat an 8-inch square baking pan (or its equivalent, such as a 6-by 9-inch pan) with vegetable oil spray.

2. Combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and sugar in a medium-sized bowl, and whisk together to completely blend.

3. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over low heat, or in a microwave-safe bowl in the microwave (about 30 seconds on high power).

4. Measure the milk into a 2-cup-capacity measuring cup with a spout (so you’ll have room to mix and it will be easy to pour). Add the vinegar, egg, and melted butter, and whisk until uniform.

5. Pour the milk mixture into the cornmeal mixture, and use a wooden spoon to mix just enough to blend. (Don’t try to beat it or over-mix. Just stir.) Transfer the batter to the prepared baking pan, scraping in every last bit with a rubber spatula.

6. Bake for 20 minutes, or until the center feels firm when lightly touched and a toothpick or sharp knife inserted all the way into the center comes out clean. Remove the pan from the oven and let the cornbread cool in the pan for at least 10 minutes before slicing and serving. Serve warm or at room temperature.

GET CREATIVE

Add up to ½ cup canned, frozen, or fresh sweet corn kernels to the batter.

Add one 4-ounce can diced roasted green chiles (spicy or mild, depending on your taste) to the batter.

Add ½ cup (packed) grated Cheddar cheese to the batter.

mushroom-zucchini ragout over creamy polenta

Makes 4 servings

I can think of few things more comforting than a hearty, aromatic vegetable stew served over a hot portion of creamy, soft polenta. Good any