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extra butter, cream, or milk because their flesh is drier). Yukon Golds, Yellow Finns, red potatoes, and other waxy varieties will give you a denser mash, and you can leave the skins on if you prefer. Once you drain the cooked potatoes, work quickly to keep things hot. It helps to mash them right in the cooking pot, and to warm the serving bowl or individual plates for a minute or so in the microwave right before serving.

3 pounds potatoes, peeled (or not) and cut into 2-inch chunks

1 cup milk (can be part cream)

3 tablespoons butter

1¼ teaspoons salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and add enough cold water to cover them by a good inch. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer, uncovered, for 15 to 20 minutes, or until falling-apart tender. (Literally: Cook them until a fork inserted into any of the pieces causes the potato to split.)

2. During the last few minutes of simmering, heat the milk and/or cream either in a saucepan over low heat until bubbly around the edges and warm to the touch (but not boiling, which can cause it to curdle) or for about 45 seconds in a microwave oven. Set aside near the sink (or wherever you’ll be working), and have the butter there too.

3. Put a colander in the sink and drain the potatoes thoroughly, then immediately return them to the hot empty pot. Throw in the butter, and begin mashing with the masher. When the potatoes are about halfway mashed, pour in the heated milk or cream plus the salt and some black pepper to taste, and keep mashing, scraping, and stirring. When the mixture is done to your liking (don’t try to get it perfectly smooth, or it will have cooled down too much), transfer it immediately to a heated bowl or plates and serve right away.

GET CREATIVE

For tangier mashed potatoes, substitute buttermilk for some or all of the milk or cream.

Make green mashed potatoes by stirring in a cup of chopped cooked spinach (or frozen chopped spinach that has simply been zapped in a microwave until hot; squeeze out some of the liquid before adding).

For subtle garlic mashed potatoes, simmer 4 or 5 peeled garlic cloves with the potatoes while you cook them. Drain the potatoes, then mash the garlic along with the potatoes.

You can mash any of these items into the potatoes, adding them when you add the milk and/or cream and salt. Or serve a few at the table, for people to customize their own.

-Roasted Garlic Paste (Chapter 1: Soups)—1 tablespoon per serving

-A drizzle of high-quality olive oil

-A large clove of garlic, minced

-Crumbled bleu cheese, goat cheese, or other soft, crumbly cheese (2 to 3 tablespoons per serving), or Luxurious Bleu Cheese Dressing (Chapter 2: Salads)

-Grated Cheddar, Parmesan, or Gruyère cheese (however much you want)

-Sour cream and chives

-Crumbled cooked bacon (see Chapter 8: Party Snacks) or prosciutto

-Wasabi (1 teaspoon per serving)

-Horseradish (1 teaspoon per serving)

-Cooked onion or minced scallion

-A dash of ground or, even better, freshly grated nutmeg on top

boiled parsley potatoes

Makes 4 to 5 servings

Try this very simple dish on a night when you have little time or patience for kitchen prep. It takes just 15 minutes, start to finish. Red creamer potatoes are easy to find and to work with. They require no peeling or scrubbing—just a quick rinse and perhaps a single cut, and they’re ready for the stove. Use little red potatoes, about 1½ inches in diameter. They are lovely on the plate and go well with just about any fish, chicken, or meat entrée as well as many vegetarian dishes. Add the parsley at the very last minute so it stays bright green. These keep well in a tightly covered container in the refrigerator, so save a few for breakfast and reheat them in a microwave or a hot skillet to eat with your eggs.

This recipe is vegan when made with olive oil.

2 pounds (about 30) red creamer potatoes

Salt for the cooking water

A handful or two of flat-leaf parsley sprigs

3 tablespoons butter or olive oil (or a combination)

¾ teaspoon salt