Ghost Wave - Chris Dixon [0]
THE DISCOVERY OF CORTES BANK AND THE BIGGEST WAVE ON EARTH
BY CHRIS DIXON
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This book would not have been possible without the work, time, support, hospitality, and/or inspiration of the following people:
Will Allison, Grant “Twiggy” Baker, Rex Bank, Steve Barilotti, Rob Bender, George Beronius, Warren Blier, Daniel Martin Bresler, John Broder, Bruce Brown, Dana Brown, Rob Brown, Jimmy Buffett, Jeff Campbell, Steve Casimiro, Mike Castillo, Alfy Cater, Jeff Clark, Gary Clisby, Annouschka Collins, Josh Collins, Ken “Skindog” Collins, Sean Collins, Charles Coxe, Chris Crolley, Pat and Mary Curren, Don Curry, Jake Davi, Brett Davis, James Deckard, Jeff Divine, Jean Louise Dixon, Quinn Deckard Dixon, Richard Jobie Dixon, Watts Dixon, Shane Dorian, Dorothea Benton Frank, Lawrence Downes, Harrison Ealey, Grant Ellis, Dr. John English, William Finnegan, Nick Fox, Arthur “Mitch” Fraas, Matt George, Sam George, Brad Gerlach, Joe Gerlach, Dr. Gary Greene, Nancy Whitemarsh Gregos, Angie Gregos-Swaroop, Greg Grivetto, Nicole Gull, Jeff Hall, Laird Hamilton, Christine Hanley, Neil Hanson, Ellis T. Hardy, Christopher Havern, Steve Hawk, Mark Healey, Marty Hoffman, Philip “Flippy” Hoffman, Scott Hulet, George Hulse, Paul Hutton, Tom Jolly, Sebastian Junger, Dave Kalama, Ilima Kalama, Brian Keaulana, Buffalo Keaulana, Momi Keaulana, James Allen Knechtman, Eric Kozen, Dr. Rikk Kvitek, Randy Laine, Larry Kirshbaum, Steve Lawson, Adm. Robert J. Leuschner Jr., Brett Lickle, Kenneth Lifshitz, Brock Little, Greg Long, Rusty Long, Steve Long, Kate Lovemore, Gena and John Lovett, Leanne Lusk, Dr. Terry Maas, Don Mackay, Hugh MacRae Jr., Hugh MacRae Sr., Nick Madigan, Sarah Malarkey, Ben Marcus, Chris Mauro, Lucia McLeod, Garrett McNamara, Clement Meighan, Capt. Scott Meisel, Peter Mel, Tara Mel, Candace Moore, Larry “Flame” Moore, Dr. Walter Munk, Mickey Muñoz, Jason Murray, Ramon Navarro, Greg Noll, Laura Noll, Jeff Novak, Collin O’Neill, Dr. Bill O’Reilly, Dave Parmenter, Rebecca Parmer, Bob Parsons, Mike Parsons, Tara Parsons, Joel Patterson, Nate Perez, Steve Pezman, Judith Porcasi, Paul Porcasi, Jodi Pritchart, Mike Ramos, Rush Randle, Louis Ribeiro, Charles and Victoria Ricks, Anthony Ruffo, Roy Salis, Marcus Saunders, Bill “Dr. Evil” Sharp, Evan Slater, Kelly Slater, John Slider, Shari Smiley, Sunshine Smith, Kelly Sorensen, Jason Stallman, Capt. Steve Stampley, Jamie Sterling, Jean Stroman, Gloria Ricks Taylor thanks mom!!!, Kimball Taylor, Roy Taylor, Beverly Tetterton, Albert “Skip” Theberge, Brendon Thomas, James Thompson, Megan Thompson, Randy Thompson, Michele Titus, Matt Walker, Philip L. Walker, Les Walker, John Walla, Matt Warshaw, Grant Washburn, Frances “Taffy” Wells, Gerry Wheaton, James Whitemarsh, Brad Wieners, Malcolm Gault-Williams, Ben Wolfe, Matt Wybenga, Andrew Yatsko, Dr. Marvin Zuckerman
I would also like to thank:
My grandparents, for teaching me the value of a fine southern family and a damn good story.
My parents, for teaching me the difference between making a life and making a living.
Quinn, for teaching me the meaning of love.
Fritz and Lucy, for teaching me the meaning of life.
My sincere apologies to anyone I might have left out.
Table of Contents
Cover Page
Title Page
Acknowledgments
Epigraph
Chapter 1: THE GHOST WAVE
Chapter 2: ONCE UPON AN ISLAND
Chapter 3: PAWNS TO Bishop ROCK
Chapter 4: THE KINGS OF ABALONIA
Chapter 5: ROGUE WAVES
Chapter 6: MAKING THE CALL
Chapter 7: AT ARM”S LENGTH
Chapter 8: THE PRISONERS
Chapter 9: ON THE SHOULDERS OF GIANTS
Chapter 10: MUTINY ON THE BOUNTY
Chapter 11: TRIFLING WITH THE ALMIGHTY
AFTERWORD
ENDNOTES
Copyright
When foolhardiness would urge me to go and peep into some yawning chasm, my conscience would appear to say to me, “Stop! You are trifling with the Almighty!”
—A description of the first view of the caldera of Mount Kilauea, Hilo, Hawaii, September 1847, by Lieutenant Archibald MacRae, United States Navy
(September 21, 1820–November 17, 1855)
Chapter 1:
THE
GHOST
WAVE
It was the only