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SERVES 6 TO 8 AS AN APPETIZER

Scrub and debeard the mussels.3

Preheat the broiler. Place a rack in the lower middle position of the oven.

Put the mussels and vermouth in a saucepan over high heat and cover. Cook just until the mussels pop open, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove them with tongs as they open. (Any mussels that do not open can be pried open using an oyster shucker or discarded.) When the mussels are done, strain the mussel liquor and reserve. Let the mussels cool.

In a wide sauté pan, cook the pancetta over medium heat until it releases some of its fat, about 5 minutes. Add the shallots and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are soft, about 5 more minutes. Add the reserved mussel liquor, lemon zest, and cayenne and deglaze the pan, letting the juices evaporate completely. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and fold in the mayonnaise. In a separate bowl, mix the parsley and panko.

When the mussels are cool, twist off the top shells and discard. Place the mussels in their bottom shells on a sheet pan. Top each mussel with a small amount of the pancetta-shallot mixture and then coat the top with some of the parsley-panko mixture. Finish each with a sprinkle of Manchego.

Broil the mussels until the topping is light brown, 1 to 2 minutes. Don’t overcook them or they will get tough. Serve on a bed of rock salt with a squeeze of the lemon juice, if desired.

PAIRING: A Chablis, such as Albert Bichot Chablis Domaine Long-Depaquit 2008, Burgundy, France, or a rosé.

mussels with bacon and israeli couscous

2 pounds mussels

4 strips bacon, cut into small

dice

¼ cup small-diced onion

1 teaspoon sweet smoked

Spanish paprika or sweet

Hungarian paprika

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 cup Israeli couscous4

Pinch of salt

½ cup dry white wine

1 cup water

½ cup cream

⅓ cup roughly chopped fresh

Italian parsley

Dear Grandma: I know when you see the ingredients in this dish, it might give you pause, as you raised me to be a good Jew, but I just want to remind you that, above all else, you taught me to see the humor in life. Isn’t it funny how I combined bacon and Israeli couscous with shellfish? Love, Becky. P.S. I had originally called this recipe “Bad Jew Stew,” but my editor thought that wasn’t the best idea I’ve ever had, so it could’ve been worse.

SERVES 4 AS A LIGHT DINNER

Scrub and debeard the mussels.5

Heat a large pot over medium heat. Add the bacon and render the fat, about 10 minutes. Transfer the bacon with a slotted spoon to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside. Add the onion, paprika, and red pepper flakes and cook for 3 to 4 minutes, or until the onions have softened. Add the couscous and salt. Sauté until the couscous is lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the wine and water and scrape the bottom of the pan. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover, and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the mussels and cream, stir well, cover, and cook until the mussels open, another 3 to 4 minutes. (Any mussels that do not open can be pried open using an oyster shucker or discarded.) Add the parsley and reserved bacon, taste for seasoning, and serve.

PAIRING: A California chardonnay, such as Sonoma Cutrer Russian River 2008, or a French white Burgundy.

mussels with sweet-and-sour cabbage and saffron aioli

For the sweet-and-sour cabbage:

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive

oil

1 pound (3 cups) thinly shred-

ded red cabbage

6 ounces (1 cup) thinly sliced

fennel bulb

¼ teaspoon salt

2 teaspoons honey

2 teaspoons minced fresh

rosemary

¼ cup red wine vinegar

For the saffron aioli:

⅛ teaspoon saffron

1½ tablespoons lemon juice,

plus additional for seasoning

⅛ teaspoon smoked chile

powder (such as piment

d’Espelette6)

¼ teaspoon salt

1 egg yolk

½ cup vegetable oil (pick one

that has a neutral flavor, such

as canola or grapeseed)

For the mussels:

2 pounds mussels

2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons high-heat

vegetable oil

One thing we have on the Pacific Coast is a temperate offshore climate that favors rosemary. Rosemary