Good Fish_ Sustainable Seafood Recipes From the Pacific Coast - Becky Selengut [34]
WHAT MAKES THIS A GOOD CHOICE: Sea scallops are filter feeders just like clams, mussels, and oysters; this process contributes to better water quality. Look for farmed Qualicum scallops from British Columbia. Like all farmed shellfish, scallops depend on clean waters to thrive, and as a result, shellfish farmers are often at the forefront of clean water advocacy initiatives. Weathervane scallops from Alaska are a second choice because they are harvested by mechanical dredge, which carries with it some habitat concerns that need to be more fully researched.
BY ANY OTHER NAME: Qualicum scallops (or “Qualicums”) are a hybrid developed by Island Scallops Ltd. from the weathervane scallop (Patinopecten caurinus) and the Japanese scallop (Patinopecten yessoensis).
SEASON: Farmed scallops are available year-round (though they spawn from April to May). Weathervane scallop season in Alaska is from July through September, although very high-quality frozen weathervanes are available year-round.
BUYING TIPS: Some lesser scallops are soaked in sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), which can be used—or rather, abused—to minimize water loss when thawing frozen scallops. When applied to fresh scallops in excess, the scallops will take up extra moisture; more water equals diluted flavor and fewer scallops per pound. Buy “dry-packed” or “chemical-free,” which is industry-speak for an unadulterated scallop. Dry-packed scallops will range from white to off-white to cream-colored: all are acceptable. Ask to smell the scallops: they should have a light, sweet ocean smell or hardly any at all. You’ll find scallops sold in “count per pound” size designations. For example, large scallops are 10 to 20 per pound; medium scallops number 20 to 30 per pound. Of course, you’ll pay more per pound for the larger scallops. For most of the recipes in this book, the size of the scallop doesn’t matter. I only specify “large” in one recipe because using a single scallop for each serving is visually appealing.
QUESTIONS TO ASK BEFORE YOU PULL OUT YOUR WALLET: After asking where and when the scallops were harvested, the most important question is whether they are fresh or were previously frozen. I ask this question only because if I end up not using all the scallops that day, I will freeze some raw ones to use at a later date, but only if they haven’t already been frozen (too many freezing and thawing cycles will destroy the texture).
CARING FOR YOUR GOOD FISH: Unwrap your scallops when you get them home. Place them on a paper-towel-lined plate and cover well with plastic wrap. Use them that day or the next. Remove the part of the adductor muscle that is sometimes still attached to the scallop, as it gets very tough when cooked. In the video about scallops at www.goodfishbook.com, I show you what this piece looks like and how to remove it.
HOW THIS TYPE OF SEAFOOD IS RAISED OR HARVESTED: Wild scallops can actually swim, pumping their adductor muscle to escape prey or move to a different area. They prefer to hang out in sand, gravel, and rock bottoms. Commercially farmed scallops are raised in net cages that are hung in the water column offshore. The scallops go from hatchery to harvest in 18 to 24 months.
SUSTAINABLE SUBSTITUTES: Crab and shrimp are good substitutes for scallops.
scallop crudo
½ pound sea scallops (see A
Note on Eating Raw Seafood
on page 235)
1 large orange
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Pinch of red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon chopped
pumpkin seeds or pistachios,
for garnish
4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive
oil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh
mint, for garnish
Maldon or gray sea salt
Crudo is an Italian dish of raw fish dressed with olive oil, citrus, and sea salt. The beauty of a good crudo lies in its ability to preserve the subtlety of the