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By Root 418 0

it appeared before “flakes” in all the fish recipes, so that, for example, “Cook the salmon until it just flakes” became “Cook the salmon until it flakes.” She thought whoever was writing the recipes had terrible grammar. I gently teased her that there is a world of culinary difference between “just flaking” and “flaking,” which is why I began this lesson by saying there’s a lot in a word.

So, to brass tacks. I feel pictures are in order here.

Here I am pressing on a piece of salmon (a) and halibut (b) that is not flaking, not “just flaking,” not even thinking about flaking. It’s totally not there yet, unless it’s a piece of albacore or a scallop and then, well, I’d eat it anywhere from raw to just seared on the outside.

This is exactly the doneness you are looking for. A press of the finger reveals a sliding away, ever so gently, of the fish into the beginning of individual flakes. The center of the halibut is still glistening with juices and ever so slightly translucent; the salmon is a nice medium rare. I call this the “thinking about flaking” stage, a phrase I prefer to “just flaking,” which is confusing to some. I removed the fish from the pan about one minute before these photos were taken. Then I lightly covered the fish, which kept it warm and allowed it to finish cooking to the perfect stage of doneness.

Oh boy, we’ve gone too far here. This is where my copy editor friend was trying to send all those unwitting recipe readers. Behold: Fish. Flaking. This fish still has some moisture, but I guarantee, by the time it hits your plate, it will have that squeaky, almost mealy, dry, tooth-grabbing texture that is the calling card of the fish flake. When the moisture finally returns to your mouth, get a fresh piece of fish and practice, practice, practice.

wild salmon chowder with fire-roasted tomatoes

1 tablespoon extra-virgin

olive oil

1 medium onion, cut into

small dice

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 ribs celery, cut into

small dice

¼ teaspoon salt

1 medium Yukon Gold or small

russet potato, peeled, cut

into small dice

1 teaspoon minced fresh

thyme

1 fresh or dried bay leaf

¼ teaspoon cayenne

¼ cup dry white wine

1 (14-ounce) can diced

tomatoes

1 cup water

1 cup clam juice

⅓ cup cream

½ pound wild pink, chum, or

coho salmon fillet, skinned,24

cut into ½-inch cubes

¼ cup minced fresh

Italian parsley

I adore this chowder. The trick here, just like with Halibut Coconut Curry with Charred Chiles and Lime (page 123), is to add the fish to the stockpot and then turn the heat off. This cooks the salmon gently, with the residual heat from the liquid in the pot finishing the job. This is especially important when using salmon species such as chum, pink, and coho that are lower in fat. This is the kind of recipe I teach my students when they say they don’t have time to cook. I am tempted to point out that they are sitting through a two-and-a-half-hour cooking class and could have made this recipe five times over, but I don’t. I’m hoping they buy this book so I can get the last word in, because being right and eating this soup—now that’s delicious!

SERVES 4

Grab yourself a large stockpot, add the olive oil, and heat over medium-high heat. Sauté the onion, garlic, celery, and salt for 5 minutes, then add the potato. Sauté for another 5 minutes. Add the thyme, bay leaf, cayenne, and white wine, stirring to loosen any bits clinging to the pot. Add the tomatoes, water, and clam juice, and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are soft. Add the cream, salmon, and parsley; stir gently and turn off the heat. Let the soup sit for 5 minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning before serving.

The chowder is better the next day and keeps well in the freezer for 2 months.

PAIRING: A Cru Beaujolais, such as Georges Duboeuf Morgon 2008, or a chardonnay from the Mâcon region of France.

hajime’s steamed banana leaf salmon

½ cup sake

½ cup mirin

¼ cup soy sauce

½ teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1 teaspoon lime juice

Pinch of salt

1 pound chum, coho, pink,