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By Root 438 0

its body—stare up at the world swimming by. This life change seems to suit the halibut, and I can say the same for myself. I chose the right career, shifting my gaze toward a life in food, and I, too, have never looked back.

WHAT MAKES THIS A GOOD CHOICE: Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch lists Pacific halibut as a “Best Choice.” U.S. North Pacific halibut is also a certified sustainable fishery of the Marine Stewardship Council. The International Pacific Halibut Commission (IPHC) manages Pacific halibut along the West Coast. Every year the IPHC researches the health of the halibut population and helps set annual catch limits, known as Total Allowable Catch (TAC), which are then divided among individual vessels. This fishery is recognized as one of the best-managed in the world, according to many leading fisheries specialists, and has a very long history, dating back to the early twentieth century.

BY ANY OTHER NAME: A small Pacific halibut (Hippoglossus stenolepis) is called a “chicken,” and a large one is called a “barn door.”

SEASON: The first sign of spring on the Pacific Coast is when fresh halibut starts appearing in the markets. The season is March through November, though frozen halibut is usually available year-round.

BUYING TIPS: Pay attention to the halibut’s color: it should be white or off-white. If it has a yellow tinge, it’s old. Dull white spots are a sign of freezer burn. If you happen to see halibut cheeks being sold, they are a nice treat—the finfish equivalent of crabmeat.

QUESTIONS TO ASK BEFORE YOU PULL OUT YOUR WALLET: Where is the halibut from? Atlantic halibut is terribly overfished at this point, so make sure you are getting Pacific halibut, which is caught primarily in Alaska, but also in Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia.

CARING FOR YOUR GOOD FISH: When I get any fish fillet home that I’m not able to use that night, I take it out of its packaging, pat it dry with paper towels, rewrap it in plastic wrap, put it in a drip pan (a perforated pan or a colander over a bowl), and throw some ice on top before storing it in the refrigerator. This ensures that the fillet is optimally chilled to preserve freshness and is ready to cook the next day.

HOW THIS TYPE OF SEAFOOD IS RAISED OR HARVESTED: Halibut are flatfish that live deep in the ocean. They are caught by long-line gear that is set along the ocean floor. Bait is put on hooks every few yards. When the gear is pulled in, the halibut are brought onto the boat one by one, killed, and iced down.

SUSTAINABLE SUBSTITUTES: Halibut is a firm, yet delicate fish, meaty and mild-tasting; some say it is a steak in fish form. A substitute for halibut would be Alaska Pacific cod.

halibut tacos with tequila-lime marinade and red cabbage slaw

For the red cabbage slaw:

¾ pound red cabbage,

shredded (about 4 cups)

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 Granny Smith apple, cored

and grated

½ teaspoon mustard seeds

½ bunch cilantro leaves and

stems, roughly chopped

(about ¾ cup)

2 tablespoons apple cider

vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive

oil

For the tequila-lime marinade:

1 lime, first zested, then juiced

(about 1 teaspoon zest and 2

tablespoons juice)

2 tablespoons tequila28

½ teaspoon salt

2 small jalapeños, halved, seeds

and membranes removed,

sliced crosswise into half rings

1 small red onion, cut into thin

half moons (about ⅔ cup)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive

oil

For the halibut:

1 pound halibut fillet, skinned29

1 tablespoon high-heat

vegetable oil

For the taco bar:

Flour tortillas, warmed

Sour cream

Guacamole (optional)

Extra limes

Beers, of course

Tequila

I present to you the god father of fish tacos that I wait all winter for, pining longingly for the spring season when the first wild Alaska halibut comes to market. If you have a bit more time, make some homemade guacamole. It is painfully simple: smash 2 ripe avocados with a fork, and add 1½ tablespoons lime juice, ¾ teaspoon salt, and 1 teaspoon hot sauce of your choice—mine is Tabasco.

SERVES 4