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By Root 445 0

the halibut is done. Finish with a squeeze of lemon juice over the top. Serve each person a piece of fish and a portion of vegetables, ladling the broth over the top of the fish.

PAIRING: A muscadet, such as Luneau-Papin “L d’Or” Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie, or a rosé.

halibut coconut curry with charred chiles and lime

2 jalapeños, seeds and membranes

removed from 1 or

both, if you want less heat

2 stalks lemongrass, woody top

half discarded, chopped

½ cup roughly chopped

shallots

¼ cup cilantro stems

1 clove garlic

2 tablespoons chopped fresh

galangal or ginger

1 teaspoon coriander seeds,

ground in a spice grinder

1 teaspoon cumin seeds,

ground in a spice grinder

¼ teaspoon salt

¼ teaspoon dried turmeric,

or 1 teaspoon grated fresh

turmeric

5 Kaffir lime leaves,31 or zest of

2 limes (about 2 teaspoons)

Chicken or vegetable stock or

water

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 (14-ounce) can coconut milk

1 tablespoon fish sauce

½ pound halibut fillet, skinned32

and cut into 1-inch cubes

Black sesame seeds, for garnish

(optional)

For the topping:

1 teaspoon vegetable oil

4 Fresno chiles, seeded and

minced

2 tablespoons minced red

onion

⅓ cup chopped cilantro leaves

2 limes, peeled and flesh cut

into small dice

Salt

I don’t know what it is about this dish that brings me so much joy—perhaps it starts with the color: bright green curry set off against the vivid red onion and charred chile garnish, with little bits of lime. Or perhaps it’s the texture: silky coconut milk meeting tender, yielding halibut contrasted with tiny, crunchy sesame seeds and the slight pull of jalapeño. It could be the flavor: sweetness balanced with spice and the savor of garlic and shallot, the cilantro hitting the herbal high note, clean and fresh until the cumin brings you back down to earth. Perhaps it’s all of it, washing over your senses the way food hits you on the streets of Bangkok—impossible to tease out the flavors from the high-pitched moped whine, the assault of fish sauce on your nasal passages, the sun beating down on your shoulders, a well-used bottle of red chile oil within arm’s reach.

SERVES 4

Add the jalapeños, lemongrass, shallots, cilantro, garlic, galangal, coriander, cumin, salt, turmeric, and 1 of the Kaffir lime leaves to the bowl of a food processor and blend, using up to ¼ cup chicken stock to help the mixture process into a smooth purée. You’ll have to scrape down the curry once or twice. Blend well for at least 3 minutes.

In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, add the vegetable oil. Add the curry and fry it for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the coconut milk, fish sauce, and the remaining Kaffir lime leaves. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to medium low and simmer for 10 minutes. Add the halibut and turn the heat off. Let the residual heat gently cook the fish. After 5 minutes, it will be ready to serve. Garnish with the sesame seeds.

To prepare the topping, heat the vegetable oil in a small sauté pan over medium-high heat. Fry the chiles and onion until they are caramelized, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and stir in the cilantro and lime. Season to taste with salt. Serve a spoonful on top of each person’s curry.

PAIRING: A German riesling, such as Joh. Jos. Christoffel Erben, Ürziger Würzgarten, Spätlese 2006, Mosel, or an Alsatian gewürztraminer.

halibut escabèche with anchovy and almond salsa verde

For the spice rub:

½ teaspoon black

peppercorns

¼ teaspoon cumin seeds

½ teaspoon coriander seeds

2 fresh or dried bay leaves

¼ teaspoon brown sugar

¼ teaspoon salt

1 pound halibut fillet,

skinned,33 cut into 4 equal

portions

For the salsa verde:

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

⅓ cup roughly chopped fresh

Italian parsley

2 canned or jarred anchovies

2 tablespoons sherry vinegar

1 teaspoon capers

½ tablespoon golden raisins

or currants

6 whole almonds

¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes

¼ teaspoon salt

For the halibut:

1 tablespoon high-heat vegetable oil

For the garnish:

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil

¼ cup diced red onions