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By Root 446 0

of its packaging, pat it dry with paper towels, rewrap it in plastic wrap, put it in a drip pan (a perforated pan or a colander over a bowl), and throw some ice on top before storing it in the refrigerator. This ensures that the fillet is optimally chilled to preserve freshness and is ready to cook the next day.

HOW THIS TYPE OF SEAFOOD IS RAISED OR HARVESTED: Rainbow trout seed is purchased from hatcheries or grown directly on the farm, and fry are placed in concrete or earthen troughs called raceways in which fresh water continuously flows.

SUSTAINABLE SUBSTITUTES: Farmed arctic char is a great replacement for farmed rainbow trout. A second choice would be wild pink or wild chum salmon.

cast-iron rainbow trout

½ ounce (½ cup) dried wild

mushrooms, or 3 ounces (1

cup) fresh wild mushrooms

Two (1-pound) whole rainbow

trout, filleted42; heads, tails,

and ribs removed

Salt and freshly ground pepper

All-purpose flour, for dusting

the fillets

3 strips bacon, cut into small

dice (about ½ cup)

High-heat vegetable oil, for

frying

¼ cup small, whole fresh sage

leaves

½ cup dry white wine

I learned how to make this dish when I cooked at La Spiga in Seattle. I loved its simplicity and earthy flavors: nutty trout, woodsy mushrooms (chanterelles are amazing in this recipe), smoky bacon, piney sage, and bright wine. You can serve the trout on a platter, but sometimes I’ll transfer the fillets and sauce back to the skillet and serve it that way—the residual heat retained in the iron keeps the dish warm.

SERVES 4

Preheat the oven to 200ºF.

If using dried wild mushrooms, rehydrate them in 1 cup of very hot tap water. Place a small bowl on top of the mushrooms to keep them submerged. Let them sit for 30 minutes while you prepare the rest of the ingredients. If using fresh mushrooms, remove any grit by gently brushing or washing them, then cut into bite-size pieces.

Season the trout fillets with salt and pepper. Dust them with the flour on both sides, shaking off any excess.

Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until its fat is rendered and it is crisp, 7 to 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon with a slotted spoon to a paper-towel-lined plate and set aside, reserving the fat. Turn the heat up to high. When the pan is very hot, fry the trout fillets, skin side up, for about 2 minutes, then flip and cook for another 2 minutes, or just until the fillets brown. Transfer each fillet to an ovenproof platter and keep warm in the oven while you fry the remaining fish (add the vegetable oil, 1 tablespoon at a time, if the pan is dry).

When you’ve removed the last piece of fish, add 1 tablespoon oil to the pan. When the oil is hot, add the mushrooms and sauté for 3 to 4 minutes, or until lightly browned. Add the sage leaves and cook for another minute. Add the bacon back to the pan, then add the wine, scraping the bottom of the pan to release any stuck-on bits, and cook for another 1 to 2 minutes. Taste for seasoning, then pour the mushroom mixture over the fillets. Serve immediately.

PAIRING: An Oregon pinot noir, such as Broadley Vineyards 2007, Willamette Valley, or an Oregon chardonnay.

smoked trout mousse with radish and cucumber quick pickle

For the mousse:

8 to 10 ounces smoked trout,43

skinned, cut into pieces

1½ tablespoons lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt

⅛ teaspoon cayenne

4 ounces cream cheese

½ teaspoon minced fresh

lemon thyme, or ½ teaspoon

minced fresh thyme and 1

teaspoon lemon zest

¼ cup cream

Freshly ground pepper

For the radish and cucumber quick pickle:

¼ cup julienned radish

¼ cup small-diced cucumber

1 tablespoon snipped fresh

chives

1 tablespoon seasoned rice

wine vinegar

I have a selection of recipes on hand that I informally call “What the hell do I bring to the potluck?” recipes. They are designed to step in when time betrays you and you’d like to show up to your friend’s home looking good with the least amount of effort expended. This recipe takes fifteen minutes tops, and you can garnish it with flair and drama at your friend