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BUYING TIPS: Arctic char has thin skin and tiny scales that do not need to be removed. Make sure the skin glistens, the eyes are not sunken, and the flesh bounces back when you gently press on it.

QUESTIONS TO ASK BEFORE YOU PULL OUT YOUR WALLET: Is it farmed? Arctic char is one of the most sustainably farmed fish out there. Where did it come from? Try to buy fish grown as close to your home as possible. When was it harvested? As with all fish, you’ll want to make sure it hasn’t been sitting around for very long (unless it’s properly frozen). Up to five days from harvest is my usual window, but the nose always knows.

CARING FOR YOUR GOOD FISH: When I get any fish fillet home that I’m not able to use that night, I take it out of its packaging, pat it dry with paper towels, rewrap it in plastic wrap, put it in a drip pan (a perforated pan or a colander over a bowl), and throw some ice on top before storing it in the refrigerator. This ensures that the fillet is optimally chilled to preserve freshness and is ready to cook the next day.

HOW THIS TYPE OF SEAFOOD IS RAISED OR HARVESTED: Arctic char is farmed in a highly controlled environment (think high-tech aquariums) where the water is cleaned, filtered, and then recycled back through the system; this recirculated water is replenished only when too much water has been lost through evaporation.

SUSTAINABLE SUBSTITUTES: Coho, pink, or chum salmon or farmed rainbow trout are excellent substitutes for arctic char. In fact, feel free to use all the recipes in the trout and char chapters interchangeably.

pan-fried char with crispy mustard crust

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

¼ teaspoon brown mustard

seeds

1 pound arctic char fillet,

skinned48 and cut into 4 equal

portions

½ cup panko

½ tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon

freshly grated lemon zest

(from 1 large lemon)

¼ cup finely chopped fresh

Italian parsley

½ teaspoon salt

Pinch of cayenne

2 tablespoons unsalted butter,

softened

1 tablespoon high-heat

vegetable oil

As much as chefs love fancy recipes, the simplest ones inevitably get the most radio play. This dish goes wonderfully with some simple steamed broccoli or broccolini. If for some weird reason you have leftovers from this dinner, run out and get a good baguette or ciabatta roll and smear it with an herb mayonnaise or some leftover lemon butter, some lovely butter lettuce, and a slice of beefsteak tomato. You will have yourself one fabulous fish sandwich.

SERVES 4

In a small bowl, combine the lemon juice, mustard, and mustard seeds. Brush this mixture on both sides of the char fillets. In another small bowl, combine the panko, ½ tablespoon of the lemon zest, parsley, ¼ teaspoon of the salt, and cayenne. Transfer the panko mixture to a plate and coat the char fillets with the crumbs on both sides.

In a small bowl, mix the butter with the remaining 1 teaspoon lemon zest and the remaining ¼ teaspoon salt. Set aside.

Heat a large skillet over high heat. Add the vegetable oil and, when it is hot, gently slide the fillets into the pan, skinned side up. Cook for 8 to 9 minutes per inch of fish (measured at its thickest point). Most char fillets are less than an inch at their thickest point, so I recommend starting with 3 minutes per side, then setting the fillets aside and covering with foil. After 5 minutes of resting, they will most likely be moist and perfectly done.

To serve, place ½ tablespoon of lemon butter on top of each piece of char.

PAIRING: A sauvignon blanc, such as Cakebread 2008, Napa Valley, California, or a Chablis.

char with grilled romaine, grapes, and balsamic vinegar

High-heat vegetable oil, for

oiling the grill

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive

oil

1 bunch romaine lettuce, cut

through the core into 4 equal

portions

1 pound arctic char fillet, cut

into 4 equal portions

Salt and freshly ground pepper

4 slices good crusty bread

½ small red onion, sliced into

paper-thin half moons (about

½ cup)

½ cup halved and seeded wine

or tart table grapes

¼ cup balsamic vinegar