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OYSTER SHUCKER (4): I’ve seen cooks and deckhands, fishermen and drunks open oysters with all manner of things: knives, screwdrivers, a hammer and nail, and keys. Just because it can be done doesn’t mean it should be done, especially if you are a beginner. Whether your shucker is blunt or sharp is a personal choice, though I recommend blunt if you are a novice. Go to www.goodfishbook.com for a demonstration of how to shuck oysters.

SCRUB BRUSH (2): A solid, stiff brush will come in handy when I suggest scrubbing off the little barnacle bits that have jumped on board your oyster shell, or the fibrous strands of algae and whatnot on your mussels. Wild clams, too, can use a good scrubbing.

SPICE GRINDER: Also known as a coffee grinder, but don’t make the mistake of using your dedicated coffee grinder for grinding spices unless the sound of cumin- or turmeric-infused coffee appeals to you. I keep a separate grinder just for spices. I also put a piece of blue painter’s tape around the outside with the word “spices” scrawled on it so April doesn’t sleepily confuse it with the coffee grinder.

I find a spice grinder to be an indispensable kitchen tool. You know those fancy, expensive spice blends that all the chefs are marketing these days? Some fresh spices plus a spice grinder plus two minutes is all that keeps you from creating your own fresh blends with which to dress that gorgeous piece of fish before throwing it on the grill. I provide several recipes for spice blends that will get you started.

sustainable seafood basics

FRESH VERSUS FROZEN

Ah, that age-old question for which too many have a knee-jerk answer: “Oh,” they say, “I only buy my fish fresh, never frozen!”

Not all fresh fish are the same, and you may be shocked to know that “fresh” does not have any legally defined meaning. A fish that has never been frozen but is eleven days past harvest, was poorly handled, and is in questionable condition can still be marketed and sold as fresh. Alternatively, a well-handled fresh fish (and by “well-handled” I mean landed gently, bled, and quickly chilled) has a longer shelf life, and its quality can be maintained for many days out of the water. A quality fresh fish will have its scales intact and will smell good; its flesh will be firm enough that a touch to its skin will not leave an impression. (Go to www.goodfishbook.com for a demonstration of how to select quality seafood.)

Not all frozen fish are the same. Again, it comes down to the handling. A well-handled fish prior to freezing makes all the difference in the world. Many fish are frozen right at sea and can be extremely high quality. Alternatively, if a fish is banged around and not chilled down quickly enough, the frozen product will

suffer: the telltale signs will be water loss, gaping, and tearing. Home freezers are not designed to freeze fish well, but, that said, I’ve had success with really good, well-handled albacore tuna loins I’ve vacuum-sealed them, frozen them, and then used them within two months.

HOW TO SAFELY THAW FROZEN FISH

The best way to thaw a frozen piece of fish is to leave it overnight in the fridge. If you are in a pinch and need it quickly, put the fillet in a resealable plastic bag inside a large metal bowl filled with cold water. Replace the water with fresh cold water every half hour, until the fillet is thawed. Why not use warm water to speed up the process? Two reasons: 1. Warm water—depending on how warm—could actually start to cook the delicate fillet. 2. Thawing is safest out of the “danger zone,” which is 40° to 140ºF. Thawing with warm water would put the fish in perfect bacterial heaven: great for the bacteria, not so much for you. Keep it cold.

A PROPERLY FROZEN FISH

Sustainable seafood educator Amy Grondin (also a commercial fisherman) helped simplify for me the commercial freezing process that brings high-quality frozen fish to our markets. I’ll let her explain in her own words:

“To maintain the quality of fish as a frozen product, fish must be frozen