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By Root 453 0

All medical students are taught this, and I am of the opinion that it should also be taught in culinary schools. In medicine, sometimes the cure can do more damage than the sickness, and similarly, overzealous culinary students and chefs can sometimes do more damage to food than if they had simply let the poor ingredient be. I’m a big fan of sauce, don’t get me wrong, but some foods shine the brightest when prepared the most simply. Great ingredients don’t require heroic culinary interventions.

SERVES 4

Combine the shallot, ginger, chile, orange zest, 2 tablespoons of the orange juice, tamarind paste, salt, and 1 teaspoon of the olive oil in a small bowl. Pour over the squid and let it marinate for 30 minutes.

Preheat an indoor or outdoor grill to high heat. When the grill is very hot, oil the grates well with the vegetable oil and place the squid tubes and tentacles on the grates (you may need to do this in two batches). Weigh the squid pieces down with a cast-iron skillet (or similar heavy heatproof pan). Grill for 1½ minutes, or until you see grill marks. Flip the squid and weigh it down again with the skillet; grill for another 30 seconds to 1 minute. Transfer the grilled squid to a platter and repeat with the remaining squid pieces.

To serve, lay the grilled squid out on a small platter and drizzle with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil and orange juice. Garnish with the mint and some sea salt.

PAIRING: An albariño, such as Abacela 2009, Umpqua Valley, Oregon, or a grüner veltliner.

chorizo-and-apple-stuffed squid with sherry pepper sauce

For the chorizo-and-apple-stuffing:

2 tablespoons extra-virgin

olive oil

3 ounces Spanish chorizo, cut

into small dice

¼ cup small-diced leeks, white

and light green parts only

½ cup small-diced Granny

Smith or other tart green

apple

Pinch of salt

⅛ teaspoon cayenne

1 teaspoon tangerine zest

(from 1 large tangerine)

2 tablespoons red wine

For the sherry pepper sauce:

1 tablespoon diced shallot

½ teaspoon fresh thyme

leaves

Salt

½ cup piquillo peppers65

¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil

¼ teaspoon honey

1 teaspoon sherry vinegar

For the squid:

½ pound cleaned whole squid

tubes66

Toothpicks, for securing squid

2 tablespoons extra-virgin

olive oil

For serving:

Crusty bread

Recipes are the currency of chefs. My conviction is that when chefs share recipes and ideas with each other, they spread goodwill and foster creativity and collaboration. Thanks to chef Ashlyn Forshner for this fabulous, original, and unforgettable stuffed squid dish, spicy and savory with Spanish chorizo, sweet with apples and leeks, and tart with a sherry-vinegar-laced pepper sauce.

SERVES 6 AS AN APPETIZER

To prepare the stuffing, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat in a large skillet. Add the chorizo and cook for 5 minutes, or until crispy and brown around the edges. Add the leeks, apples, salt, cayenne, and tangerine zest and sauté for 3 to 4 more minutes, or until the apples soften. Turn the heat up to high and deglaze the pan with the red wine until all the liquid evaporates, about 2 minutes. Let the mixture cool for 5 minutes.

To prepare the sauce, add all of the ingredients to the bowl of a food processor and blend thoroughly, stopping occasionally to scrape down the sides. Check seasoning and set aside.

To prepare the squid, using a small spoon, stuff a squid tube with a portion of chorizo-apple filling, packing it in tightly. Secure the squid closed with a toothpick. Repeat with the remaining squid.

In a large skillet over medium heat, add the olive oil. When the oil is hot, caramelize the stuffed squid, cooking for 1 to 2 minutes, then flipping and cooking for another minute or two on the other side, being careful not to overcook. Set aside.

Serve each guest a small plate with one stuffed squid and a spoonful of pepper sauce on the side. Pass around some good crusty bread to dip in the sauce.

PAIRING: A Vouvray sec, such as La Craie 2008, Loire Valley, France, or an Alsatian pinot gris.

sustainable caviar

I can’t remember the occasion.