Great Wine Made Simple - Andrea Immer [53]
Having It Both Ways
Some winemakers get the best of both worlds. In the increasingly global marketplace, joint ventures between Old World and New World wineries are a growing phenomenon. The Opus One winery in Napa Valley was one of the first, a joint venture launched in the late 1970s between Robert Mondavi and the Baron Philippe de Rothschild (owner of Bordeaux’s Château Mouton-Rothschild), and remains among the most celebrated. Another more recent trend has been the establishment of vineyards in the Southern Hemisphere by Old World wineries. Since the seasons are opposite, they get to work two harvests a year instead of one, and also to make wine from both Old World and New World viewpoints. Chile’s Bodegas Torres winery, launched by the famous Spanish winemaker Miguel Torres, was one of the pioneers in this movement. Many other vintners, including some of Bordeaux’s best-known winemakers, have followed.
WINE TASTING
The Old World and the New
If you are thinking that the idea of a wine being subtle or bold is a matter of personal taste, you are right. There is no absolute definition of subtlety or boldness in a wine, but that’s okay. These words are used to help us draw distinctions between one wine and another, just as we use them in comparing other things. You might say a Rolls-Royce is subtle and elegant, while a Ferrari is bold, yet both cars could share a subtle feature, say a black color. A lobster bisque is subtle compared to a bold gazpacho, yet chefs would tell you that at their best, both soups rely on bold ingredients—an intense lobster stock on the one hand, perfectly ripe tomatoes, onions, and garlic on the other—as well as a subtle layering of flavors.
Here are some tastings that will let you explore the subtlety of the Old World and boldness of the New World style yourself. I encourage you to try them all, because the wines are delicious, and the comparisons will add immeasurably to your tasting confidence. A lot of people tell me they can’t taste and remember the subtle differences in wines. It is a skill that comes with experience and by now you have plenty, which will allow you to really enjoy these tastings. Before we start, here is a recap of some of the terms we used to compare and contrast Old World and New World wine. You might like to refer to them as you taste, and I will in the notes:
Our selections for tasting necessarily start at the mid-price level, because most of the classic Old World wines are, by definition, at least a cut above everyday wines in terms of both quality and price. My recommendations are chosen to ensure you compare wines of comparable quality.
Old World, New World, and the Big Six
From all of our tastings, you have developed a broad frame of reference for the styles of the Big Six grapes, so this is a great place to start our Old World and New World tasting comparisons. Given your tasting experience, I will not remind you in each tasting box to examine the look of the wines against a white background, or to swirl. I am sure both are second nature by now.
Riesling
Sauvignon Blanc
Chardonnay
Pinot Noir
Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot
The next two tastings feature Old World selections from Bordeaux, France. The aroma and taste expression of Bordeaux terroir is one of my favorites in the world of wine. It differs from Merlot-based wines to Cabernet-based wines, as you will see from my varied notes with each tasting. Take a moment to cleanse your palate and be prepared to really focus on these wines. I’ve included some pretty elaborate descriptions to help you appreciate their depth.
Merlot
Cabernet Sauvignon
Syrah/Shiraz
The Old World wines in this tasting are all regionally named wines from France’s Rhône Valley, so you will not see the grape name listed on their labels.