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These two regions in Italy’s northeast quadrant produce some distinctive wines, but quantities are small. Most are varietals, some familiar (Merlot, Chardonnay, etc.), and some unique to the region, such as Friuli’s (Free-OOH-lee) delicious dry white Tocai and Trentino’s distinct dry red, Teroldego (Tear-OHL-deh-go). But the main presence of these regions in the American market comes in the form of Pinot Grigio.

PINOT GRIGIO—ITALY’S ULTIMATE “CHEAP BUT GOOD” OFFERING To me, the crisp, dry, refreshing white Pinot Grigio is one of Italy’s great commercial wine achievements. It joins Chardonnay, Merlot, and Champagne as one of the handful of wine words that has instant meaning to most people—the words Pinot Grigio connote, quite accurately, “dry white wine.” How many other wine names can lay claim to an identity that is so well known? It is also one of the most consistent wines on the globe. Most bottles I have ever tasted were perfectly pleasant, and I cannot ever remember an awful one. I can’t say that about any other wine category.

Even better, Pinot Grigio prices have, with a few exceptions, held at a decent level—but I have a few words to say about pricing. Pinot Grigio’s virtues are familiarity and reliablity, but the wine rarely goes beyond that. Offhand, I can only think of one winery, Jermann (YAIR-mahn), that makes a “special” Pinot Grigio. Considering these circumstances, it makes no sense whatsoever to pay extra for a household-name-brand Pinot Grigio. You get absolutely nothing for the premium. If you’re sure a particular brand will impress your date or client, that’s a different story. But keep in mind that it’s the label you’re paying for, not a better wine. That said, here are some good, reasonably priced Pinot Grigios: Livio Felluga, Scarbolo, Lageder, Zenato (Zen-AH-toe), Zemmer (ZEMM-er), Zonin (ZONE-in), Campanile (Camp-uh-NEE-leh), and Cavit.

Southern Italy

TAURASI DOCG, THE CAMPANIA REGION’S ONE-OF-A-KIND DRY RED This region near Naples, and in the shadow of the famous volcano Mt. Vesuvius, grows the Aglianico (Ah-lee-AH-nee-coe) grape, whose origins are said to be in ancient Greece. The wine, called Taurasi, is full-bodied, powerful, and tannic, needing lots of bottle age to shed its toughness. Mastroberardino (Mass-tro-bear-ahr-DEE-no) is the famous producer. Another wine from the area, Lacryma Christi (tears of Christ), white and red, has a famous name but that’s all. The wine is nothing special.

If You Want More Than a Little Italy

While we’ve tasted the best of Italy, we’ve nonetheless just scratched the surface of Italian wine. What about all those other labels you noticed on your trips to the wine shop to buy the wines for our tastings? I have been doing the wine thing for a long time, and I’m still amazed by how much more there is for me to learn about Italian wines. But that is what keeps the wine world so exciting. If your curiosity is piqued, and you would like to go on, there are two things you should do. The obvious one is to continue reading. Vino Italiano, by Joseph Bastianich and David Lynch, of Babbo Restaurant in New York City, is one of the most comprehensive titles on the subject. Second, keep your corkscrew handy and keep tasting. For what to taste when you’re in uncharted territory, read on. In the next chapter, I’ll give you a strategy for choosing those wines, too.

CHAPTER EIGHT

The Rest of the Wine World

Consider how far we’ve come. You hoped to learn to consistently find wines that tasted good for a decent price, but that’s become almost second nature. You’ve tasted a lot of wines and learned a great deal about what you like and don’t like. With your understanding of the Big Six grapes and their styles, the classic European wine regions and their styles, the New and Old World differences, and the Flavor Map, you have more than enough knowledge to find a good bottle in any wine shop or restaurant wine list. What’s more, you’re comfortable doing it.

And you’re probably finding that’s no longer enough.

If you are the curious type,