Great Wine Made Simple - Andrea Immer [93]
WHITE ALBARIÑO AND RED PRIORATO—SPAIN’S ONE-OF-A-KIND WINES A few years ago, the beautifully scented Albariño, from a little-known DO called Rías Baixas (REE-yahss BIKE-sahss) stole onto the wine scene, taking a lot of us in the trade by surprise. Spain was known for red wines, but this world-class white from the Galicia district really got our attention with its delicate fruit and mouthwatering acidity. It should be savored young, while the fruit character is fresh and vibrant. Look for Burgans (Buhrr-GANZ), Morgadío (More-guh-DEE-oh), Lagar de Cervera (Luh-GARR deh Sair-VAIR-uh), Lusco (LOO-scoe), and Martin Codax (Martin COE-dacks). We can thank some of the top Spanish importers mentioned below for introducing this one to the American market.
Ditto the intense, inky red wine called Priorato (Pree-or-RAH-toe) or sometimes Priorat. The region, a bit inland from Barcelona, had been in decline until a few talented winemakers saw the capability of its great old vineyards to make monumental red wines. Garnacha, Tempranillo, and Cabernet Sauvignon are the mainstay grapes, made into an intense, tannic, oak-aged style. You pay dearly for that intensity, but fans of Priorato are more than willing. I personally find the style overpowering for food and thus hard to work with in most wine situations. If you like this big style, Finca Dofí (FING-cuh Doe-FEE), Clos de l’Obac (Cloe duh Loe-BOCK), Clos Mogador (Cloe Moe-guh-DOOR), and L’Ermita (Lair-MEE-tuh) are some wines to be on the lookout for.
TOP RANKED
As in Italy with the DOCG rank, Spain added an even stricter level to its appellation system, the DOC—Denominación de Origen Calificada. So far, Rioja and Priorat are the only two.
CHEAP BUT GOOD: SPANISH CAVA, PENEDES, AND NAVARRA WINES
Cava (KAH-vuh), Spain’s sparkling wine made mainly in the Penedes (PEH-nuh-dess) region around Barcelona, is simply the best budget bubbly on the market. It is made by the Champagne method described in Chapter 6, yet good ones cost around ten dollars, and often less. In addition to the local grapes Parellada (Pah-ray-YAH-duh), Macabeo (Mah-cuh-BAY-oh), and Xarel-lo (Shah-ray-LOE), Chardonnay is widely used. The two biggest brands, Freixenet (Freh-zhuh-NETT) and Codorníu (Coh-duhr-NEW), are both good. Look also for Segura Viudas (She-GUH-ruh Vee-YOU-duss), Paul Cheneau (Paul Shuh-KNOW), and Mont Marcal (Mohnt Mahr-CAL).
Penedes In still (nonsparkling) wines from the Penedes, there is one name you should know: Torres. Like the Gallo family of California and the Antinoris of Italy, the Torres family are Spain’s wine titans, with wine, liqueur, and brandy operations all over the country (and the world, with outposts in Chile and California). Their headquarters in the Penedes region is the source of some of the best everyday-priced white and red wines on the market. I always have fun pouring them, identity hidden, for guests. Being at my house, their wine expectations are usually pretty high, so I love seeing their delighted reactions to these ten dollar wines (some cost even less). All have proprietary names and use local grapes, sometimes in combination with the international varieties you know so well (Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet, and so on). The whites are Viña Sol (aptly named, it is the perfect summer party time and anytime wine) and