Greece - Korina Miller [100]
Alavastro Café (Map; 210 756 0102; Damareos 78, Pangrati) The Alavastro features an eclectic mix of modern jazz, ethnic and quality Greek music in a casual and intimate venue.
Small Music Theatre (Map; 210 924 5644; Veïkou 33, Koukaki) This small venue hosts an interesting assortment of bands, often jazz and fusion.
Palenque (Map; 210 775 2360; www.palenque.gr; Farandaton 41, Ambelokipi; 9.30pm-late) A slice of Havana in Athens, Palenque presents regular live music, with artists from around the world, salsa parties and flamenco shows.
GREEK MUSIC
Rembetika Clubs
Athens is where you can see some of the best rembetika (Greek blues) in intimate, evocative venues. Most close down from May to September, so in summer try the live music tavernas around Psyrri and Plaka (below). Most sets include a combination of rembetika and laïka (urban popular music). Performances start at around 11.30pm; most places do not have a cover charge, but drinks can be expensive.
Stoa Athanaton (Map; 210 321 4362; Sofokleous 19, Omonia; 3-6pm & midnight-6am Mon-Sat, closed Jun-Sep) The almost legendary Stoa Athanaton occupies a hall above the central meat market. It is a popular venue, with classic rembetika and laïka from a respected band of musicians – often starting from mid-afternoon. Access is by a lift in the arcade.
Perivoli Tou Ouranou (Map; 210 323 5517; Lysikratous 19, Plaka; 9pm-late Thu-Sun, closed Jul-Sep) A favourite Plaka music haunt in a rustic old-style venue where you can have dinner and listen to authentic laïka and rembetika by leading exponents.
Kavouras (Map; 210 381 0202; Themistokleous 64, Exarhia; 11pm-late, closed Jul & Aug) Above Exarhia’s popular souvlaki joint, this lively club usually has a decent line-up of musicians playing rembetika and laïka until dawn.
Live Music Tavernas
If you want to hear some music over dinner, many tavernas around Plaka and Psyrri have live music in the evenings, playing traditional laïka and rembetika.
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SUMMER CINEMA
One of the delights of balmy summer nights in Athens is the enduring tradition of open-air cinema, where you can watch the latest Hollywood or art-house flick under moonlight. Many refurbished original outdoor cinemas are still operating in gardens and on rooftops around Athens, with modern sound systems.
The most historic outdoor cinema is Aigli (Map; 210 336 9369) in the verdant Zappeio Gardens, where you can watch a movie in style with a glass of wine.
Try to nab a seat with Acropolis views (seats on the right) on the rooftop of Plaka’s Cine Paris (Map; 210 322 0721; Kydathineon 22), or meander around the foothills of the Acropolis to Thission (Map; 210 342 0864; Apostolou Pavlou 7, Thisio).
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Palea Plakiotiki Taverna Stamatopoulos (Map; 210 322 8722; Lyssiou 26, Plaka; 7pm-2am Mon-Sat, 11am-2am Sun) A Plaka institution, this place has reasonable food and live music nightly. It’s popular with locals and can get extremely busy later in the evening, so you’ll need to get in early to get a table.
Mostrou (Map; 210 322 5558; Mnisikleous 22, cnr Lyssiou, Plaka; 9pm-late Thu-Sun) Mostrou has a full-sized stage and dance floor and is popular with locals. In summer, there’s more sedate live music on the terrace.
Psyrri has a tradition of merry Sunday afternoons, but you’ll find live music most nights at many of the tavernas, including Paliogramofono (Map; 210 323 1409; Navarhou Apostoli 8), which has decent food.
There is also live music most nights and on weekends at Café Avyssinia.
Nightclubs
Athens is renowned for its nightlife, with vibrant bars and dance clubs to suit all types and musical tastes, from the latest dance beats to indie pop rock, plus the classic Greek bouzoukia or skyladika (literally ‘dog houses’, a playful term for second-rate places with crooning singers). Admission to some clubs ranges from €10 Monday to Thursday to €15 on Friday and Saturday nights. The admission price usually