Greece - Korina Miller [109]
There is also a small Museum of the Electric Railway ( 210 414 7552; admission free; 9am-2pm & 5-8pm) in the metro station at the end of the platform.
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SLEEPING
If you’re catching an early ferry or don’t want to stay downtown, there are hotels around the Great Harbour, but many are shabby and aimed more towards accommodating sailors and clandestine liaisons than tourists. The better hotels are geared for the business market. Don’t attempt to sleep out – Piraeus is probably one of the most dangerous places in Greece to do so.
Pireaus Dream Hotel ( 210 411 0555; www.pireausdreamhotel.com; Filonos 79-81; s/d/tr incl breakfast €45/55/65; ) With quiet rooms starting on the 4th floor, this renovated hotel about 500m from the station has good facilities, including laptop and PlayStation rental, and serves a big American breakfast.
Hotel Triton ( 210 417 3457; www.htriton.gr; Tsamadou 8; s/d/tr incl breakfast €55/70/80; ) This refurbished hotel with sleek executive-style rooms is a treat compared to the usual run-down joints in Pireaus. Some rooms overlook the colourful market square.
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EATING & DRINKING
The waterfront around the Great Harbour is lined with cafes, restaurants and fast-food places, but the better restaurants are in the backstreets or further afield at the Mikrolimano harbour and Zea Marina, as well as along the waterfront promenade at Freatida.
Rakadiko ( 210 417 8470; Stoa Kouvelou, Karaoli Dimitriou 5; mezedhes €4-10; 11am-midnight Tue Sun) Down this arcade you are transported to a village square of bygone days. The menu has mezedhes from all over Greece, produce is brought in daily from Crete and the two cooks from Ikaria are always looking out for interesting recipes from the islands. There is live rembetika music on Friday and Saturday nights and also on Sunday afternoons.
Plous Podilatou ( 210 413 7910; www.plous-podilatou.gr; Akti Koumoundourou 42; mains €12-20) Dining by the Mikrolimano harbour is a delight, and the food at this slick, modern restaurant will not disappoint. The year-round sibling of pioneering Nuevo-Greek restaurant Kitrino Podilato has a Mediterranean menu, with an emphasison well-prepared fresh fish and seafood.
Flying Pig Pub ( 210 429 5344; Filonos 31; 9am-1am) Run by a friendly Greek-Australian, the Flying Pig Pub is a popular bar with a large range of beers. The Pig also serves decent food, including a very generous English breakfast.
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SHOPPING
Piraeus is a large commercial centre with excellent shopping, concentrated around the pedestrian strip along Sotiros Dios.
Piraeus Flea Market (cnr Alipedou & Skylitsi Omiridou; 7am-4pm Sun) This bustling Sunday market rivals its famous counterpart in Athens, with stalls flogging almost anything and nearby stores selling jewellery, ceramics and antiques. The market is near Plateia Ippodamias, behind the metro station. Antique hunters are better off scouring the stores in the streets around the market.
Mandragoras ( 210 417 2961; Gounari 14; 8am-4pm Mon, Wed & Sat, 8am-8pm Tue, Thu & Fri) In the heart of the central food market, this is a superb delicatessen with a fine selection of gourmet delights, from cheeses and ready-made mezedhes to spices, olive oils and preserved foods to take home.
You can also stock up on supplies before a ferry trip, in the area just inland from Akti Poseidonos. The markets ( 6am-4pm Mon-Fri) are on Dimosthenous, or try Piraikon Supermarket (Ippokratous 1; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat) opposite the markets.
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Bus
Buses 040 and 049 run 24 hours between Piraeus and central Athens; they run every 20 minutes from 6am until midnight and then hourly. Bus 040 runs between Akti Xaveriou in Piraeus and Filellinon in Athens. Bus 049 runs