Greece - Korina Miller [112]
Another section of the site leads 1km down a picturesque track to the relatively well-preserved fortress on the clifftop near the sea, with the remains of the city, a temple, a gymnasium and a theatre. Ramnous is well off the beaten track, and consequently one of the least spoilt ancient sites. You need your own transport to get here.
Shinias Σχοιις
The long, sandy, pine-fringed beach at Shinias, southeast of Marathon, is the best in this part of Attica and very popular at weekends.
Ramnous Camping ( 22940 55855; www.ramnous.gr; Leoforos Marathonas 174, Nea Makri; camp sites per adult/tent €7.50/7; Apr-Oct), about 1km from Shinias Beach, is the most pleasant camping ground in Attica, with sites nestled in shrubbery and trees. There’s a minimarket, bar/restaurant, playground, laundry and tents for hire.
The bus to Marathon stops at the entrance to the camp site and within walking distance of Shinias Beach.
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VRAVRONA ΒΡΑΥΡΩΝΑ
The Sanctuary of Artemis ( 22990 27020; adult/concession €3/1.50; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) was a revered site for worshippers of the goddess of the hunt, protector of women in childbirth and newborns. The temple is one of several monuments from this Neolithic settlement. The museum (temporarily closed at the time of research) houses exceptional finds from the sanctuary and excavations in the area.
From Athens, take the metro to Ethniki Amyna, then bus 304 to Loutsa. It’s a 10-minute taxi ride from there, with a nice stretch of beach on the way.
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RAFINA ΡΑΦΗΝΑ
Rafina, on Attica’s east coast, is Athens’ main fishing port and the second-most important port for passenger ferries. The port is far smaller than Piraeus and less confusing – and fares are about 20% cheaper – but it does take an hour on the bus to get here.
Rafina port police ( 22940 22300) occupies a kiosk near the quay.
There are frequent buses between Athens and Rafina from the Mavromateon bus terminal (€2.20, one hour) between 5.45am and 10.30pm.
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LAVRIO ΛΑΥΡΙΟ
Lavrio, an industrial town on the coast 60km southeast of Athens, is the port for ferries to Kea and Kythnos and high-season catamarans to the western Cyclades. It is scheduled to become a major container port, with a rail link to Athens. In antiquity, it was an important mining town. The silver mines funded the great classical building boom in Athens and helped build the fleet that defeated the Persians. Some of the underground shafts and mining galleries are still visible. Lavrio has also become a windsurfing spot.
The town has a small Archaeological Museum ( 22920 22817; Sepieri; admission €2; 10am-3pm Tue-Sun) as well as a Mineralogical Museum ( 22930 26270; Iroon Polytehniou; admission €1.20; 10am-noon Wed, Sat & Sun).
Lavrio had many fish tavernas and ouzeries, as well as a great fish market.
Buses to Lavrio (€5.20, 1½ hours) run every 30 minutes from the Mavromateon terminal in Athens. Lavrio Port Authority ( 22920 25249) has ferry information.
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AROUND PEANIA
Koutouki Cave Σπηλι Κουτοκι
Although the facilities here are run-down, this two-million-year-old cave ( 210 664 2910; www.culture.gr; adult/concession €5/3; 9.30am-2.45pm Mon-Fri, 10am-2.15pm Sat & Sun) is one of the finest in Greece, covering 3300 sq metres and containing stalagmites and stalactites. It is well lit and guided tours end with a quirky sound-and-light finale with classical music.
The cave is best visited by car. Buses 125 and 308 from outside Athens’ Ethniki Amyna metro station can take you as far as Peania, but it’s a further 4.5km to the cave.
Vorres Museum Μουσεο Βορρέ
This impressive, private modern art and folk museum ( 210 664 2520; www.culture.gr; Parodos Diadohou Konstantinou 4, Peania; adult/child €5/2.50; 10am-2pm Sat & Sun year-round, daily in Aug, by appointment Sep-Jul) is on the lovely 2.5-hectare estate that is the home of Ion Vorres. Vorres migrated to Canada as