Greece - Korina Miller [119]
Meanwhile, a new service, the proastiako (Athens suburban rail service), was operating between Kiato and Athens (and Athens airport). It will eventually link Athens to Patra in the Peloponnese.
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DIAKOFTO–KALAVRYTA RAILWAY
One of the unmissable journeys to make in the Peloponnese is aboard the tiny, unique train ( in Diakofto 26910 43228) running along the railway from Diakofto to Kalavryta. It takes travellers on an unforgettable ride through the dramatic Vouraïkos Gorge. The train climbs over 700m in 22.5km, using a rack-and-pinion (cog) system for traction on the steep sections, effectively clamping itself to the notched girder you can see running between the rails. Built by an Italian company between 1885 and 1895, the railway was a remarkable feat of engineering for its time, with only a handful of equivalents around the world (most notably in the Swiss Alps). Between 2007 and 2009 the trains were off the tracks as the entire rails and cog sections were completely replaced, and four new modern trains were constructed to replace the former carriages.
The opening section of the journey is fairly sedate, the ascent beginning in earnest about 5km south of Diakofto. The section from here to Zahlorou is spectacular as the line switches back and forth across the gorge. As the gorge narrows, the train disappears into a long curving tunnel (there are seven tunnels in total) and emerges clinging to a narrow ledge that seems to overhang the river, at its most dramatic when swollen by spring snowmelt from the surrounding mountains. South of the charming village of Zahlorou, the line follows the river beneath a leafy canopy of plane trees, before meandering through open country for the final run to Kalavryta.
The journey takes just over an hour, stopping en route at Zahlorou. At the time of research, a fare cost €9.50/19 one way/return. A good website to check its status (run by a passionate trainspotter) is www.odontotos.com.
The original steam engines that first plied the route were replaced in the early 1960s by diesel cars, but the old engines can still be seen outside Diakofto and Kalavryta stations.
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The main reason for visiting is to board the unique rack-and-pinion train service along the Vouraïkos Gorge as far as Kalavryta (boxed text).
Orientation & Information
Diakofto’s layout is simple. The train station is in the middle of the village. To reach the waterfront and beach, cross the railway track and walk down the road for 1km.
There is no EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation) or tourist police. The National Bank of Greece and the post office ( 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) are on the main street that leads inland from the station.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Chris-Paul ( 26910 41715/855; www.chrispaul-hotel.gr; s/d/tr €35/65/78; ) This modernish, plain place has friendly management and is a block from the platform – prime position for train travellers. Most rooms have balconies overlooking the garden and pool. Breakfast is €5.
Hotel Lemonies ( 26910 41229/820; fax 26910 43710; s/d/tr €36/48/57; ) This simple, pleasant place has kind owners and basic but spacious, comfortable rooms – with fridge and TV. It’s 500m north of the train station on the road leading to the beach. Breakfast is €6. There’s a steep set of stairs to rooms.
Hotel Panorama ( 26910 41614; www.greecepanorama.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €50/60/80; ) This unpretentious ’70s place is located in the northeasternmost part of village, right in front of the beach. Rooms are plain but perfectly adequate (note, there is no lift). It can be noisy in summer, thanks to the taverna below, but delightful the rest of the year.
Costas ( 26910 43228; mains €6-10; lunch & dinner) This popular psistaria (restaurant serving char-grilled food), near the National Bank, is a good eating choice. The friendly Greek-Australian owners offer taverna-style dishes alongside the usual grilled meats. It’s known