Greece - Korina Miller [121]
National Bank of Greece (25 Martiou) Just before Plateia Kalavrytou.
Post office ( 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) Behind Plateia Kalavrytou.
Sights
MUSEUM OF THE KALAVRYTA HOLOCAUST
This extraordinary museum ( 26920 23646; 1-3 Syngrou; admission €3; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun Jun-Sep, 9am-4pm Tue-Sun Oct-May) should be a compulsory first stop for all visitors to this village. It is a most powerful tribute to the memory of the estimated 700 people killed by the German army in the region during WWII, especially those who died in the 13 December 1943 slaughter. It’s a dignified, understated, yet extremely evocative account of the struggle between the occupying forces and partisan fighters in the area, and the events running up to the massacre; an atrocity reported to be partly put in motion by the partisans’ execution of a group of German prisoners.
Whatever you do, don’t pass by the videos on continuous loop dotted throughout the exhibition. These are the accounts of surviving villagers who escaped death in the slaughter or, after being locked with their mothers in the schoolhouse (the museum building), apparently to be burned alive, only to escape; they were left to bury the dead. The wall covered with pictures of the dead Kalavryta villagers is an especially striking memorial.
MARTYRS’ MONUMENT
A huge white cross on a cypress-covered hillside just east of town marks the site of the 1943 massacre. Beneath this imposing monument is a poignant little shrine to the victims. It is signposted off Konstantinou.
Sleeping
Lodges are dotted outside the village; the village itself has few hotel options. Peak period here is the ski season (November to April), when reservations are essential. Bookings are also required on weekends throughout the year, when Athenians come to enjoy the cool mountain air. Prices are slashed by as much as 50% at other times.
The cheapest option is the domatia (private rooms) on the streets behind the train station.
Hotel Filoxenia ( 26920 22422; www.hotelfiloxenia.gr; Ethnikis Andistasis 10; s/d/tr incl breakfast €92/121/137; ) Kind of like an old-fashioned ski lodge – old, brown and a bit daggy, but comfortable and friendly. Rooms have a minibar, safe, hairdryer, TV and balcony.
Hotel Kynaitha ( 26920 22609; www.kynaitha.gr; Ethnikis Andistasis 11; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast €95/115/145/190; ) Modern and comfortable with spacious and attractively furnished rooms boasting minibar, hairdryer and TV, plus gleaming white bathrooms and posh toiletries.
Hotel Helmos ( 26920 29222; www.hotelhelmos.gr; Plateia Eleftherias 1; s/d/tr €120/160/180; ) Housed in one of the village’s stunning original buildings, this renovated option has all the creature comforts in contemporary surrounds. Prices are slashed on weekdays and in low season; reservations are essential in winter.
Eating
Most places to eat are on 25 Martiou; head from top to bottom and go where the Greeks go. Even out of ski season Kalavryta is one of the weekend places for Athenians, so it has an abundance of trendy bars and cafes throughout.
Ellinikon ( 26920 23502; snacks €1.50-4) This terrific bakery is near the petrol station on the road out of town towards Patra and Klitoria. It has ideal picnic fare: wonderful bread, minipizzas and dozens of types of sweet pastries.
Gri Gri Café (25 Martiou; snacks €2-4) Opposite the museum you’ll find this good (less fashion-conscious) family-run spot. Recommended for its sweet or savoury homemade snacks, such as cheese pie, baklava and tasty crèma (sweet, set custard).
Lixoudies ( 26920 24470; Syngrou 6; mains €6-10; lunch) Away from the crowds and opposite the bus station, you come here for the food, not the street outlook. This is a friendly place with good-quality traditional taverna grills. It’s also popular with the locals.
Getting There & Around
The newly refurbished rack-and-pinion train to/from Diakofto via Zahlorou (boxed text) runs to a changing timetable.
There are buses to Patra (€7, two hours, five daily), Athens (€15.10, three hours,