Greece - Korina Miller [132]
Sights & Activities
PALAMIDI FORTRESS
This vast and spectacular citadel ( 27520 28036; adult/concession €4/2; 8am-7pm summer, 8am-3pm winter) stands on a 216m-high outcrop of rock with excellent views down onto the sea and surrounding land. It was built by the Venetians between 1711 and 1714, and is regarded as a masterpiece of military architecture. Within its walls stands a series of independent bastions, strategically located across the hill. The most important, and best preserved, is the western Agios Andreas Bastion, which stands at the top of the steps from town. It was the home of the garrison commander, and it is named after the tiny church in the interior courtyard. There are wonderful views over the Akronafplia and the old town from the bastion walls.
The Miltiades Bastion, to the northeast, is the largest of the bastions. It was used as a prison for condemned criminals from 1840 to 1920. War of Independence hero Theodoros Kolokotronis spent several years here after being condemned for treason.
There are two main approaches to the fortress. You can go via the road (taxis cost about €8 one way) or the energetic can tackle the seemingly endless steps that begin southeast of the bus station. The exact number of steps is an issue of much conjecture. Locals claim that there are 999 steps, which has prompted many travellers to conduct independent counts. Most report a considerably lower figure; locals respond that the 999 steps are to the Church of Agios Andreas. Whatever the number, climb early and take water.
AKRONAFPLIA FORTRESS
Rising above the old part of town, the Akronafplia fortress is the oldest of Nafplio’s three castles, although there’s much less to see here than at the other two forts. The lower sections of the walls date back to the Bronze Age. Until the arrival of the Venetians, the town was restricted to within its walls. The Turks called it İç Kale (meaning ‘inner castle’). It was used as a political prison from 1936 to 1956.
There’s a lift up to the fortress from Plateia Poliko Nosokomiou at the western edge of town – look for the flags at the entrance of the tunnel leading to the lift. It heads up to a flash hotel complex (see Nafplia Palace, Click here) from where you can access the fortress. The old gateway to the fortress, crowned with a fine Venetian lion emblem, is at the top of Potamianou, the stepped street that heads uphill off Plateia Agios Spiridonos.
BOURTZI
The island fortress of Bourtzi lies about 600m west of the town’s port. Most of the existing structure was built by the Venetians. Boats (€4 return per person) to the island leave from the northeastern end of Akti Miaouli.
MUSEUMS
Nafplio’s award-winning Peloponnese Folklore Foundation Museum ( 27520 28947; Vasileos Alexandrou 1; adult/concession €4/2; 9am-3pm & 6-9pm Mon & Wed-Sat, 9.30am-3pm Sun, closed Tue mornings) is a beautifully arranged collection of folk costumes and household items from Nafplio’s former times. Not to be missed. There’s also a gift shop on the ground floor.
An arm of the Athens National Gallery, beautiful National Gallery – Alexandros Soutzos Museum ( 27520 21915; Sidiras Merarhias 23; adult/concession €3/2, admission free Mon; 10am-3pm Mon, Thu & Sat, 10am-3pm & 5-8pm Wed & Fri; 10am-2pm Sun) is housed in a stunningly restored neoclassical building and displays works on the 1821 Greek War of Independence, including paintings of Greek painters Vryzakis and Tsokos, considered the most important painters of the postwar years. The paintings, a few sculptures and artefacts are divided according to themes: battles, dying heroes, victorious sea battles, consequences of war in everyday life and ideology of the Free State.
The war museum (Amalias 22; admission free; 9am-2pm Tue-Sun) traces Greece’s military history from the War of Independence onwards through a collection of photographs, paintings, uniforms and assorted weaponry.
Overlooking Plateia Syntagmatos and opened in 2009 following seven years of renovations, the Archaeological Museum