Greece - Korina Miller [144]
Signs point left (west) through olive groves to the 2nd- or 3rd-century-BC ancient theatre, the site’s most discernible ruin. You’ll find a reconstructed plan of the theatre at the Restaurant Elysse.
The main cobbled path leads north to the acropolis (some of which is fenced off), passing the Byzantine Church of Christ the Saviour on the way to the hill-top Sanctuary of Athena Halkioitou. Some of the most important finds in the town’s archaeological museum were unearthed here. Alternatively, you can see and approach the theatre from here. There are impressive views of the snowcapped Taÿgetos Mountains.
The history of the Sanctuary of Artemis Orthia, on the northeastern side of town, is more interesting than the site. Like most of the deities in Greek mythology, the goddess Artemis had many aspects, one of which was Artemis Orthia. In the earliest times this aspect of the goddess was honoured through human sacrifice. The Spartans gave this activity away for the slightly less gruesome business of flogging young boys in honour of the goddess. The museum houses a collection of clay masks used during ritual dances. The sanctuary is signposted at the junction of Odos Ton 118 and Orthias Artemidos. One of the other remaining remnants of ancient Sparta is the sanctuary of Leonidas, although in reality its provenance and purpose in ancient Sparta is unknown.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
Sparta’s archaeological museum ( 27310 28575; cnr Lykourgou & Agiou Nikonos; adult/concession €2/1; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) sits in a beautiful park setting with a fountain and an orange grove. Its artefacts are from Sparta’s illustrious past, including votive sickles that Spartan boys dedicated to Artemis Orthia, heads and torsos of various deities, a statue of the great King Leonidas, and masks and grave stelae. Mosaics from Hellenistic and Roman Sparta are also on show.
MUSEUM OF THE OLIVE & GREEK OLIVE OIL
This stunningly designed museum ( 27310 89315; www.piop.gr; Othonos Amalias 129; adult/concession €3/1.50; 10am-6pm 1 Mar-15 Oct, 10am-5pm 16 Oct-18 Feb) shows and tells you everything you could want to know about the olive. The high-quality explanations in English trace the history of the olive from its first appearance in the Mediterranean to the modern day. There are some magnificent antique olive presses, as well as a series of working models that demonstrate changes in pressing technology. The downstairs cafe serves good coffee.
COUMANTARIOS ART GALLERY
An annex of the National Art Gallery of Athens, the quaint Coumantarios Art Gallery ( 27310 81557; Paleologou 123; admission free; 9am-3pm Wed-Sat & Mon, 10am-2pm Sun) holds a permanent collection of 40 paintings and temporary exhibitions.
Sleeping
The closest camping grounds are 2km from downtown Sparta, or near Mystras village. For both options Click here.
Hotel Lakonia ( 27310 28954; Paleologou 89; s/d/tr incl breakfast €45/65/85) The 32 cutting-edge rooms best suit sleek geeks, and are far from spartan. Two-tone chairs, spot lighting and portal access are a few of the mod cons.
Hotel Maniatis ( 27310 22665; www.maniatishotel.gr; Paleologou 72-76; s/d/tr incl breakfast €89/113/147; ) These light and pleasant rooms have more designer shapes than a NYC contemporary-design exhibition, and the service is efficient. The upmarket Zeys restaurant (mains €6 to €15) is attached.
Hotel Menelaion ( 27310 22161-5; www.menelaion.com; Paleologou 91; s/d/tr €97/130/162; ) This place has one of the town’s finest neoclassical facades and, following a renovation in 2009, some pretty swish and glitzy rooms. Breakfast costs €9.
Also recommended:
Hotel Apollo ( 27310 22491/2/3; fax 27310 23936; Thermopylon 84; s/d/tr €35/45/60) A reasonable accommodation option.
Hotel Cecil ( 27310 24980; ktza78@otenet.gr; Paleologou 125; s/d €40/55; ) The small, family-run Cecil is personable, spruce and a little dated. Worth it only if you prefer smaller places. Breakfast costs €5.
Eating
Most of the larger hotels have