Greece - Korina Miller [148]
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PEREGRINATIONS OF PAUSANIAS
Lonely Planet and its competitors were beaten to publishing guidebooks by nearly 20 centuries. The traveller and geographer Pausanias (2nd century AD) wrote what is believed to be the first – and most definitive – ‘guidebook’ for tourists. His work, Description of Greece (sometimes known as Tour or Itinerary of Greece), is a series of 10 books in which he describes most of Greece as seen at the time (between 143 and 161), covering the regions of Attica, Beotia, Phocis and Ozolian Locris plus the regions that make up much of the Peloponnese – Corinthia, Lakonia, Messinia, Elia, Achaïa, Arkadia. Classical Greek scholars, historians and archaeologists regard it as an extremely important historical work for its insight into places, people, monuments and sites, as well as associated facts and legends. Pausanias is believed to be from Lydia in Asia Minor and travelled extensively throughout Greece, Macedonia, Italy and parts of Asia and Africa.
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History
The rock island of Monemvasia was part of the mainland until it was cut off by an earthquake in AD 375. Its name means ‘single entry’ (moni – single, emvasia – entry), as there is only one way to the medieval town.
During the 6th century barbarian incursions forced inhabitants of the surrounding area to retreat to this natural rock fortress. By the 13th century it had become the principal commercial centre of Byzantine Morea – complementing Mystras, the spiritual centre. It was famous throughout Europe for its highly praised Malvasia-grape wine.
The Franks, Venetians and Turks all invaded in the following centuries. During the War of Independence its Turkish inhabitants were massacred after their surrender, following a three-month siege.
Orientation & Information
All the practicalities are located in Gefyra. The main street is 23 Iouliou, which runs south around the coast from the causeway, while Spartis runs north up the coast and becomes the road to Molai. Malvasia Travel, just before the causeway in Geyfra, acts as the bus stop. The National Bank of Greece, with an ATM, and post office ( 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) are opposite. The police ( 27320 61210; Spartis 137) are in one of the few buildings in town with a street number.
Sights
KASTRO – MEDIEVAL TOWN
You can find everything you want in this city – except water.
18th-century Turkish traveller
The narrow, cobbled main street is lined with souvenir shops and tavernas, flanked by winding stairways that weave between a complex network of stone houses with walled gardens and courtyards. The main street leads to the central square and the Cathedral of Christ in Chains, dating from the 13th century. Opposite is the Church of Agios Pavlos, built in 956. Further along the main street is the Church of Myrtidiotissa, virtually in ruins, but still with a small altar and a defiantly flickering candle. Overlooking the sea is the recently restored, whitewashed 16th-century Church of Panagia Hrysafitissa.
The path to the fortress and the upper town is signposted up the steps to the left of the central square. The upper town is now a vast and fascinating jumbled ruin, except for the Church of Agia Sofia, which perches on the edge of a sheer cliff.
MONEMVASIA ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
This small museum ( 27320 61403; admission free; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun winter, 8am-8pm Tue-Sun summer) displays a detailed map of Monemvasia, useful for orientating yourself. It also houses finds unearthed in the course of excavations and building around the old town. The star turn is the templon (chancel screen) from an 11th-century church near the sea gate. Other pieces of note include a marble door frame from the Church of Agia Sofia and plenty of fine ceramics.
Sleeping
There’s no truly budget accommodation in the kastro itself but considering where you are, some places offer excellent value (where else in the world can you sleep at or near a World Heritage site?). Prices are far from rock solid; they alter drastically depending on good ol