Greece - Korina Miller [153]
Invincible Mani ( 27330 53670; Plateia Athanaton) Has an excellent selection of maps and books on the region.
National Bank of Greece (Petrobey Mavromihali; 8am-1pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1.30pm Fri Aug, 8am-1pm Tue & Thu Sep-Jul) The only bank in town; has an ATM.
Post office (Petrobey Mavromihali; 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) At the northern edge of town.
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
There are some fine examples of Maniot architecture to be found in the narrow alleyways surrounding Plateia 17 Martiou.
They start with the 18th-century Church of Taxiarhes on the southern side of the square. Its four-storey bell tower marks it as the most important of the town’s many churches. Look out for the extremely well-preserved relief carvings above the main door. The much older Church of Agios Ioannis, on the southern edge of the old town, contains a series of frescoes relating the life of Jesus. It was built by the Mavromihalis family.
There are numerous examples of tower houses – some in poor condition; others have been converted into smart accommodation. The Mavromihalis Tower (Tzani Tzanaki), south of Plateia 17 Martiou, was once the mightiest tower in town, but now it stands sadly derelict.
In the southern end of town (ask for directions), the Religious Museum (www.culture.gr; admission free) – off the visitor radar due to lack of signage and promotion – is a must-see. Housed in a restored tower, the Pikoulakis Tower, it houses exquisite Byzantine pieces from Mani churches, including superb manuscripts and jewellery.
There is some fabulous walking in the area; experienced hikers should have no problem with compasses and equipment.
SLEEPING
Budget
Tsimova Rooms ( 27330 51301; s/d/apt €40/60/80) You might have to battle your way through the cuddly toys and photos in this homey place, a renovated tower located behind the Church of Taxiarhes. Not to forget the weaponry collection of the elderly ex-partisan owner, ranging from daggers to cast-iron cannons. Rooms are rather overpriced.
Hotel Kouris ( 27330 51340; fax 27330 51331; Plateia Athanaton; s/d €50/60) Out of place against the Maniot towers, this concrete block is characterless, but a useful fallback.
Midrange & Top End
Hotel Trapela ( 27330 52690; www.trapela.gr; s/d/tr €50/70/80;) This small 12-room place is promoted as a ‘new traditional’ hotel, as indeed it is. The comfortable wood and stone rooms have tasteful muted colours and the design is along Maniot lines.
Hotel Petrounis ( 27330 51151; www.petrounis.gr; d €65-70, tr €90; ) This recently opened renovated place offers a slightly jumbled blend of Maniot and modern, but is pleasantly velvety and very central. The friendly owner speaks good English.
Londas Pension ( 27330 51360; www.londas.com; d/tr incl breakfast €80/110) This 200-year-old tower is the undisputed king of the castle: stylish whitewashed rooms tastefully decorated in an antique and modern fusion. Signposted right at the Church of Taxiarhes.
EATING
To Katoi ( 27330 51201; mains €7-10; dinner Mon-Fri, lunch & dinner Sat & Sun) This cosy place is recommended for its daily specials (not on the menu). It’s in a lovely location near the Church of Taxiarhes.
Nicola’s Corner Taverna ( 27330 51366; Plateia Athanaton; mains €8-10) Ignore the menu – this popular spot on the central square displays a good choice of tasty taverna staples that change daily. Don’t miss the handmade maccaroni with fried local cheese.
For self-caterers, the small Koilakos supermarket is near Plateia Athanaton.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
The bus station ( 27330 51229; Plateia Athanaton) is a few doors left of Europa Grill. There are buses to Gythio (€2.80, 30 minutes, four daily), which proceed to Athens (€23.80). There are bus services to Itilo (€1.40, 20 minutes, three daily Monday to Saturday, no service Sunday) via Limeni, to Gerolimenas (€3.30, 45 minutes, three daily), the Diros Caves (€1.40, 15 minutes, one daily; returns at 12.45pm),