Greece - Korina Miller [166]
Voidokilia Beach can also be approached via road from the village of Petrohori, 6km north of Gialova off the road to Hora.
Nestor’s Palace
So called because it is believed to have been the court of the mythical hero Nestor, who took part in the voyage of the Argonauts and fought in the Trojan War, Nestor’s Palace ( 27630 31437; site only adult/concession €3/2, site & museum adult/concession €4/2; 8.30am-3pm, museum closed Mon) is the best preserved of all Mycenaean palaces. Originally a two-storey building, the palace’s walls stand 1m high, giving a good idea of the layout of a Mycenaean palace complex. The main palace, in the middle, was a building of many rooms. The largest room, the throne room, was where the king dealt with state business. In the centre was a large, circular hearth surrounded by four ornate columns that supported a 1st-floor balcony. Some of the fine frescoes discovered here are housed in the museum in the nearby village of Hora (below). Surrounding the throne is the sentry box, pantry, waiting room, a vestibule and, most fascinating, a bathroom with a terracotta tub still in place.
The most important finds were 1200 or so Linear B script tablets, the first discovered on the mainland. Some are in Hora’s museum. The site was excavated later than the other Mycenaean sites, between 1952 and 1965. An excellent guidebook by Carl Blegen, who led the excavations, is sold at the site.
Nestor’s Palace is 17km north of modern Pylos. Buses from Pylos to Kyparissia go via Nestor’s Palace (€1.40, 30 minutes).
Hora Χώρα
Hora’s fascinating little archaeological museum ( 27632 31358; museum only adult/concession €2/1, museum & site adult/concession €4/2; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), 4km northeast of Nestor’s Palace, houses finds from the site and other Mycenaean artefacts from Messinia. The prize pieces are the incomplete frescos from the throne rooms at Nestor’s Palace and the Linear B tablets (even if the tablets are copies).
Buses from Pylos to Kyparissia stop at Hora.
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ELIA ΗΛIΑ
Most people come to Elia for one reason: to visit the historically important and impressive site of Ancient Olympia, birthplace of the Olympic Games, in the region’s western prefecture. Elia is otherwise largely an agricultural area.
Ancient Elia took its name from the mythical King Helios. Its capital was the city of Elis, now a forgotten ruin on the road from Gastouni to Lake Pinios. When the Franks arrived, they made Andravida the capital of their principate of Morea. Pyrgos is the dull modern capital.
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THOLOS TO PYRGOS
ΘΟΛΟΣ ΠΡΟΣ ΠΥΡΓΟΣ
Heading north into Elia from Messinia, the mountains to the east give way to populated plains fringed by golden-sand beaches. Elia’s coastline has one of the longest stretches of beaches, even if interspersed here and there by pebbled shores and rocky outcrops. Unfortunately, behind the beaches, buildings are increasingly impeding potentially pretty views. Among the best southern beaches are Tholos, Kakovatos and Kouroutas. There is seaside accommodation available in each village, but most of it is in uninspiring concrete buildings.
A sign outside Tholos points to the mountain village of Nea Figalia, 14km inland. From here, it’s a further 21km to reach the tranquil and overgrown site of Ancient Figalia, set high above the Neda River. Laurel, cypress and citrus trees are clustered around the ruins of this ancient Arkadian marketplace, with remnants of towers, a small acropolis and a temple to Dionysos, the wine pourer. Some of the city walls (formerly around 4.5km long) still remain and you can see these from the road. Few people come here so wandering around here at your leisure is pleasurable, if hot in summer (bring plenty of water). A road leads about 19km east from Nea Figalia to Andritsena.
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PYRGOS ΠΥΡΓΟΣ
pop 23,274
Pyrgos, the capital of Elia prefecture, 98km southwest of Patra and 24km