Greece - Korina Miller [170]
Beyond the nymphaeum and up a flight of stone steps, a row of 12 treasuries stretched to the stadium, each erected by a city-state for use as a storehouse and marking the northern boundaries of the altis.
At the bottom of these steps are the scant remains of the 5th-century-BC metroön, a temple dedicated to Rea, the mother of the gods. Apparently the ancients worshipped Rea in this temple with orgies.
The foundations of the philippeion, west of the Temple of Hera, are the remains of a circular construction with Ionic columns built by Philip of Macedon to commemorate the Battle of Chaironeia (338 BC), where he defeated a combined army of Athenians and Thebans. The building contained statues of Philip and his family.
North of the philippeion was the prytaneum, the magistrate’s residence. Here, winning athletes were entertained and feasted.
Sleeping
Camping Diana ( 26240 22314; fax 26240 22425; camp sites per adult/tent/car €8/6/5; year-round; ) A well-run place, with delightful owners and luxuriant tree canopy; clearly signposted 250m west of the village.
Hotel Hermes ( 26240 22577; fax 26240 22040; s/d/tr inc breakfast €30/35/45; ) This friendly, family-run budget option has basic, but spotless, rooms with linoleum floors. It’s after the BP petrol station on the right-hand side as you enter town from the south.
Pension Posidon ( 26240 22567; Stefanopoulou 9; s/d/tr €35/40/45) A helpful couple run this centrally located place, whose simple, bright and airy rooms have balconies. Breakfast costs €5.
Hotel Kronio ( 26240 22188; www.hotelkronio.gr; Tsoureka 1, s €46, d/tr incl breakfast €56/72; ) In 2008 this place had a makeover. Its contemporary look and bright and airy rooms make it one of the best-value options around. The helpful multilingual owner adds to the package.
Hotel Pelops ( /fax 26240 22543; www.hotelpelops.gr; Varela 2; s/d/tr/ste incl breakfast €48/60/84/110; ) Opposite the church, this is among the town’s best contenders, with comfortable rooms. The friendly Greek-Australian owners provide friendly service and a buffet breakfast fit for an athlete. On offer each night is the Pelops Platter, a massive dish of gourmet mezedhes.
Best Western Hotel Europa International ( 26240 22650; www.hoteleuropa.gr; s/d/tr €90/130/150; ) It may have a franchise name and is popular with groups, but this family-owned hotel (1km west of town) wins the gold medal for its large, luxurious rooms with balcony vistas. A bar, restaurant (see right), swimming pool, and a decent pool-side taverna (under the shade of olive trees) add value to its winning streak.
Eating
There are no outstanding favourites among Olympia’s restaurants; with so many one-off customers passing through, they lack incentive to strive for excellence. You’re better off heading to the outer villages, including Floka, 1.5km north and Ancient Pissa (formerly Miraka and renamed after the 2007 bushfires). To get to Ancient Pissa, take the national road and follow the signs.
No name takeaway (snacks €1.50; 7am-3pm) This nondescript blink-and-you’ll-miss-it takeaway joint has been here for 20 years, and with good reason. Owner Takis makes the best tyropita (cheese pie) and other homemade treats in the Pelops – some would say, Greece.
Mithos ( 26243 00369; mains €6-8; lunch & dinner) A locally recommended place off the tourist drag. The place to get your chops around some good-quality grills. Enough said.
O Thea ( 26240 23264; Floka; mains €6-12; dinner Apr-Oct) It’s worth the effort to venture uphill (even on foot) to the small village of Floka, 1.5km north of Olympia, for hearty traditional taverna fare. Enjoy the grills, zucchini balls and views of Floka from the large terrace. That is, if the locals don’t beat you to it. It’s open irregularly outside high season.
Taverna Bacchus