Greece - Korina Miller [178]
After the Trojan War in the 12th century BC, Thiva became the dominant city of the Boeotia region. In 371 BC the city was victorious in battle against once-invincible Sparta. Thiva’s glorious run ended abruptly in 335 BC, when it was sacked by Alexander the Great for rebelling against Macedonian control and siding with Persia. Alexander spared the temples, but not 6000 Thebans who died in the bloody battle. Another 30,000 were taken prisoner.
In keeping with its history, Thiva has an impressive Archaeological Museum ( 22620 27913; admission €2; 8am-2.30pm Tue-Sat) which includes jewellery found in the Mycenaean palaces, terracotta masks and decorated sarcophagi. However, the museum has been closed for renovations since 2007, and is not scheduled to reopen until 2011.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Niovi ( 22620 29888; www.hotelniovi.gr; Epaminonda 63; s/d incl breakfast €43/55; ) This welcoming lodging manages to be both homey and modern, with flower pots adorning the marble interior stairs, satellite TV and free wi-fi. The hotel is adjacent to the plateia (square) and DIA supermarket, and a 10-minute stroll from the archaeological museum.
Dionysos Restaurant ( 22620 24445; mains €4-7.50) Welcoming proprietor Kypriotakis boasts of his oven-ready dishes made ‘in the old Greek way’, such as lamb in lemon sauce, and pastitsio (buttery macaroni and lamb).
Ladhokola ( 22620 28400; mains €5-8.50) Just opposite, on the square, this snappy eatery serves tasty grilled shrimp, chops and souvlakia (cubes of meat on skewers).
Getting There & Away
Buses operate to Athens (€7.40, 1½ hours, hourly) from Thiva’s central bus station ( 22620 27512), 500m south of Plateia Agios Kalotinis. The bus stop (no phone) for Livadia and Delphi (€4.80, 50 minutes, five daily) is near the Shell petrol station and train station.
Trains from Thiva station ( 22620 27531), 100m north of the museum, depart for Athens (normal/intercity [IC] express €3.50/9.20, 75/60 minutes, 13 daily), and Thessaloniki (normal/IC express €12.60/33, four/5½ hours, 10 daily).
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AROUND THIVA
The well-preserved 4th-century Fortress of Eleftherae, guarding the Kaza Pass over Mt Kythairon, stands between Athens and Thiva. According to mythology, baby Oedipus was left to perish on this mountain bordering ancient Attica before being rescued by a shepherd. History buffs can also inspect the ruins near Erythres, where the Battle of Plataea (479 BC) took place, marking the end of the Persian Wars. A road branching off to Porto Germeno leads to 4th-century-BC Aigosthena, with the best-preserved fortress walls in all Greece.
Thiva is usually visited en route from Athens to Delphi, via the national highway. However, with your own transport and a yen for history, you can also reach Thiva by means of a scenic mountain road, which begins 2km west of Elefsina (ancient Eleusis).
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LIVADIA ΛΙΒΑΔΕΙA
pop 20,980
Livadia is on the Athens–Delphi road, 45km northwest of Thiva. The town flanks both sides of a gorge from which the Erkynas River emerges. A 14th-century Frankish castle overlooks the town, and the shaded Kryes springs (cold springs) grant Livadia worthwhile-stopover status on the road to Delphi.
Livadia’s two springs are associated in mythology with the oracle of Trophonios. Pilgrims seeking advice were required to first drink from the Fountain of Lethe (Forgetfulness) and then from the Fountain of Mnemosyne (Memory). Both springs are still bubbling away, just above an Ottoman-era bridge, and just 1km from the town square, signed ‘cold spring’.
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Levadia ( 22610 23611; www.levadiahotel.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast €55/70/85; ) Should you need to linger, the Levadia is reliably old-fashioned, clean and friendly, and just opposite central Plateia Kotsoni.
A few attractive cafes and restaurants overlook the river. For a touch of history, try handsome Neromylos ( 22610 26928; mains €6-12; dinner), set in a restored 19th-century flour mill. Kitchen favourites