Greece - Korina Miller [181]
When she was consulted for divine advice, the priestess inhaled the fumes and entered a trance. Her inspired, if somewhat vague, answers were translated into verse by a priest. In fact, the oracle’s reputation for infallibility may have rested with the often ambiguous or cryptic answers. Wars were fought, marriages sealed and journeys begun on the strength of the oracle’s visions.
Legend holds that one oracle suffered for her vagueness, whether vapour-induced or not. When Alexander the Great visited, hoping to hear a prophecy that he would soon conquer the ancient world, the oracle refused direct comment, instead asking that he return later. Enraged, he dragged her by the hair out of the chamber until she screamed, ‘Let go of me; you’re unbeatable’. He quickly dropped her, saying ‘I have my answer’.
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Delphi Museum
From around the 8th century BC, Ancient Delphi managed to amass a considerable treasure trove, much of it reflected in its magnificent museum (Map; 22650 82312; www.culture.gr/war/index_en.jsp; adult site or museum €6, adult/student site & museum €9/5, free Sun Nov-Mar; 8am-7.45pm Tue-Sun, 1.30-7.45pm Mon Apr-Oct, 8.30am-2.45pm Nov-Mar).
Upon entering the museum, in room 5 you’ll first notice the Sphinx of the Naxians, dating from 560 BC. Also residing here are well-preserved parts of the frieze from the Siphnian treasury, which depicts not only the battle between the gods and the giants, but also the Judgment of Paris (far left corner as you enter), who was called upon to decide which goddess was most beautiful (he chose Aphrodite). In room 3 are two fine examples of 6th-century-BC kouroi (young men), the ‘twins of Argos’.
In the rooms to the left are fragments of metopes (figures within the frieze) from the Athenian treasury depicting the Labours of Hercules, the Exploits of Theseus and the Battle of the Amazons (room 7). Further on you can’t miss the tall Acanthus Column of Dancers (room 11), with three women dancing around its top. Next to it is the omphalos, a sculpted cone that once stood at what was considered the centre of the world. In the end room is the celebrated life-size Bronze Charioteer, which commemorates a victory in the Pythian Games of 478 or 474 BC.
SIKELIANOS MUSEUM
Fans of Greek drama should head to the intimate Sikelianos Museum (Delphic Festivals Museum; Map; 22650 82731; admission €1; 9am-3pm Thu-Mon) in a classic mansion overlooking Delphi, dedicated to Greek poet Angelos Sikelianos and his American-born wife Eva Palmer, who together in the late 1920s established Delphi as a European centre for drama and the arts, with masks, costumes and photos on display. The town and museum sponsor a 10-day ancient drama festival every July.
Activities
Two popular day hikes, both part of the Trans-European E4 trail, start and end at Delphi. The first connects two ancient sites, the Temple of Apollo and Korikio Antro, a sacred mountain cave-shrine for Pan and Dionysos. Many hikers first hire a taxi in Arahova as far as Kalyvia (€25), hike to the cave (500m), and return to Delphi via a well-marked path within four hours. Along the way, there are awesome views of Delphi, the Amfissa plain and Galaxidi.
A second hike meanders through the shady olives groves that stretch from Delphi to Ancient Kirra on the Gulf of Corinth, and takes four to five hours. After lunch or a swim, return by bus (€2) to Delphi. The E4 trailhead is marked 100m east of the Hotel Acropole.
Tours
English-language tours of Delphi are offered by Georgia Hasioti ( 69449 43511, 22550 82722) who also speaks Japanese, French and Italian; Penny Kolomvotsos ( 69446 44427) who also speaks German; and Electra Togia ( 69378 13215); who also speaks Italian and