Greece - Korina Miller [184]
Between 800m and 1800m, the slopes of Parnassos support Kefallonian fir, spruce and juniper, interspersed with yellow-flowered shrubs, plum trees and the rare purple-flowered Daphne jasminea. Above the tree line are meadows of fescue grass. Spring flowers including crocuses, squills, tulips, orchids and irises sprout from the limestone rocks. Greece’s most common mammals – foxes, hares, squirrels and jackals – may be seen, as well as vultures, passerines and hawks.
Activities
HIKING
The most popular ascent on Parnassos is to Liakoura Peak. The route begins at the Parnassos refuge (1990m), 20km north of Arahova and 25km south of Amfiklia. For information, contact well-regarded local guide Stathis Samartzis ( 22670 31525, 6932566206), or the Greek Alpine Club ( 21032 12429).
SKIING
The Parnassos Ski Centre ( 22340 22694; www.parnassos-ski.gr/en; Nov-May) handles ski and snowboard operations for the most popular slope on the mountain, Kelaria (1950m). At last count, there were 13 lifts covering more than 20 ski runs and alpine trails. The centre is 24km from Arahova and 17km from Amfiklia. There are complete holiday facilities with accommodation, restaurants, hip cafes, babysitting services, a safety network and medical centre, along with ski and snowboarding schools. Adjacent to Kelaria are the steeper slopes of Fterolakkas (six lifts), popular with extreme skiers.
For more information, www.snowreport.gr, or contact the DETPA municipal tourist office (below) in nearby Arahova. For ski instruction, find the reliable Papos & Baldoumis ( 22670 31552, 6944567678; www.skisc hool.gr).
Getting There & Away
There is public transport on winter weekends between Arahova and the ski centre on Parnassos, free with the price of a lift ticket. A taxi from Delphi runs about €40.
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ARAHOVA ΑΡAΧΩΒΑ
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Arahova (ah-ra-ho-vah), only 12km from Delphi, rests on a rocky spur of Mt Parnassos at an altitude of 960m. This rugged mountain town is primarily a winter resort for skiers, and for Greeks it is very much the place to be during the skiing season. Prices in winter reflect this trend and some restaurants close in summer.
The main street and stepped alleyways of Arahova are flanked by shops selling embroidery, hand-woven bags and flokati (shaggy woollen rugs) and various other souvenirs. The town is also noted for its cheese, honey, hilopites (fettuccine-style pasta) and red wine.
Orientation & Information
The town’s main thoroughfare is Delphon, which snakes its way through three squares: Pappaioannou, the central Lakka and Xenias. Delphon doubles as the main Athens–Delphi road, and the police are constantly reminding locals not to double-park. The bus station is opposite Plateia Xenias.
The DETPA municipal tourist office ( 22670 31630; detpa@arahova.gr; 9am-9pm), near the clock tower, can help with accommodation and visiting Mt Parnassos. The post office (Plateia Xenias) is near four bank ATMs, and the entire village is a wi-fi hotspot.
Festivals & Events
The Festival of Agios Georgios is held in town around 23 April (if this date falls during Lent, the festival is postponed until the following Easter Tuesday). It’s a joyous three-day celebration with virtually the entire village in costume, dancing and singing, a tug-of-war contest, and, on the last day, feasting on roasted lamb, all compliments of the town.
Sleeping
Room prices in Arahova jump about 50% on winter weekends and holidays, from November to April.
Hotel Likoria ( 22670 31180; www.likoria.gr, in Greek; s/d/tr incl breakfast from €55/75/100; ) Off the main road, 250m northwest of Plateia Xenias, the low-key Likoria feels more like a country inn. Rooms are quite traditional, with carpeting, huge soft beds and shuttered doors opening to large balconies. The friendly English-speaking staff is a plus.
Pension Nostos ( 22670 31385; www.nostosp.gr; d/tr incl breakfast €75/105) This handsome chalet-style lodging overlooking Delphi