Greece - Korina Miller [186]
Orientation & Information
Galaxidi’s central square is Plateia Iroön (aka Manousakia), from where the main street of Nikolaou Mama leads to the larger of Galaxidi’s two harbours. Kammenoi leads to the smaller harbour of Hirolakas. The post office and a bank are on Nikolaou Mama. A forested headland, opposite the waterfront, is fringed by a 1.5km walking path and pebbled coves popular with swimmers.
You can access the internet for free at cafe-bar To Kafeneio ( 22650 41315; Akti Oianthis 55; desserts €2.50-4.50), open from morning till late.
Sights
The excellent Nautical Historical Museum ( 22650 41795; Plateia Manousakia; adult/child €5/1; 10.10am-1.30pm & 5.30-8.30pm Jun-Sep, 10.10am-4pm Oct-May) documents Greece’s maritime history and Galaxidi’s unique ship-building lore, and includes several splendid ship figureheads.
The carved-wood iconostasis in the Church of Agios Nikolaos is one of Greece’s finest. Follow the English signs for the museums and church.
The little 13th-century Moni Metamorfosis stands amid olive groves and cypress trees, 7km inland from Galaxidi. From this vantage point there are terrific views down to the Gulf of Corinth. To reach it, go under the flyover and take the road opposite.
Sleeping
In summer, several of the waterfront cafes have rooms to let, though they’re often pricey, given the noisy location.
Hotel Ganimede ( 22650 41328; 69371 54567; www.ganimede.gr; Nik Gourgouris 20; s/d/tr €35/58/65; ) This delightful courtyard hotel in a 19th-century captain’s house offers pastel-shaded rooms with wood-panelled ceilings and period furniture. Owner Chrisoula Papalexi’s homemade breakfasts (€9) include jams, cheeses, fresh-squeezed juices and breads from the nearby family bakery. The captain’s original living room is a split-level suite that sleeps five (€170 with breakfast). There are also three modern apartments (from €58), each with kitchen.
To Spitaki ( 22650 41257, 6977512238; d/f incl breakfast from €95/140; ) Its name meaning ‘little house’ in Greek, this converted 1850s stone ouzerie (ouzo bar) is one of three adjacent properties, each complete with kitchen and flower garden, and halfway between the port and main square. Owner Stella stocks each kitchen with tasty breakfast basics.
Other recommendations:
Pension Votsalo ( 22650 42292, 6972555488; Plateia Hirolaka; d/tr €40/50; ) Three unique rooms, each with its own colour scheme, on the bay.
Hotel Galaxa ( 22650 41620; fax 22650 42053; old harbour; s/d/f €65/75/110; ) Family-sized rooms, garden terrace, and 100m to harbour swimming.
Eating
Albatross ( 22650 42233; Konstadinou Satha 36; mains €4-9; 8am-midnight) You could write the menu of this sweet six-table taverna, near the Church of Agios Nikolaos, on the back of a postcard, but the generous offerings of mezedhes (taramasalata and tzatziki) along with a few oven-ready dishes such as bakaliaro (baked cod) or roasted pork are always tasty and cheap.
Ouzeri Orea Ellas ( 22650 42016; Akti Oianthis 79; mains €5-8) Look for the model yacht inside this well-regarded waterfront taverna, popular for fresh seafood and traditional mousakas, soupia krasati (cuttlefish) and kokoras krasatos (rooster in wine).
Taverna Anamnisis Apo Ta Limania (Memories of the Port, 22650 42003; mains €5-12) This down-to-earth port standby is better known by the owner’s name, Kavouras, who hauls in the fresh catch each day. Standouts include seafood risotto and garidhes (prawns).
Porto Restaurant ( 22650 41182; mains €6-10) On the corner opposite the waterfront plateia, this family eatery serves up well-prepared mayirefta dishes such as vegie mousakas, lamb with pasta and baked cod.
Other options around the port:
Art Cafe Liotrivi ( 22650 41781; old harbour; mains €4-10; daily Jul & Aug, Fri & Sat Sep-Jun)