Greece - Korina Miller [199]
Sisilianou Arhontiko ( 24280 99556; www.arhontiko-sisilianou.gr; d/tr incl breakfast from €80/100; ) This elegant 2007-rebuilt mansion is the pick of the village. Each room is unique and tastefully decorated in period furniture. Modern touches include satellite TV, soft beds and well-appointed bathrooms. Hint: room No 7 has mountain views from the bed.
Taverna A-B ( 24280 99355; mains €5-10; Tue-Sun) An excellent spot, 150m past the central square, the A-B makes the most of strictly local produce and meat in mountain favourites such as rabbit in red wine sauce (€8), lamb and zucchini casserole (€7), along with well-made appetisers and salads. The view from the verandah merits a glass of the house red by itself.
Other good options:
Arhontiko Repana ( 24280 99067; www.repana.gr, in Greek; s/d/tr incl breakfast from €40/70/90; ) Welcoming and woodsy, overlooking the plateia.
Taverna Apolafsi ( 24280 90085; Thu-Tue) Excellent grills, mayirefta.
Aeriko Café-bar ( 24280 99710; drinks €2-5; 10am-late) Halfway between Portaria and Makrinitsa.
MAKRINITSA TO HANIA
ΜΑΚΡΙΝΙΤΣΑ ΠΡΟΣ ΧΑΝΙΑ
Back on the main Volos–Zagora route, the road continues another 15km to the modern village of Hania, with views to both the Aegean and the Pagastikos Gulf. About 3km uphill from here is the ski resort of Agriolefkes ( 24280 73719; lift day passes per weekday/weekend €11/18). This small resort (elevation 1350m) sports two ski lodges and is open, snowfall permitting, from late December to mid-March. In addition to a 5km cross-country track, there are two lifts and three downhill ski runs.
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TOP FIVE QUIRKY MUSEUMS OF THE PELION
Part of the Pelion Peninsula’s character derives from its rugged geography and virtual isolation. The region is well known for its unique art, cuisine and architecture. Much of that exceptional spirit is captured in a handful of small private museums, each one a minor revelation of the people and the land. Check out these gems:
Museum of the Olive
Serpentine Organic Garden
Theophilos Museum
Skolio tou Riga Museum (below)
Old Radio Museum
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Northeast Pelion
ZAGORA ΖΑΓΟΡΑ
From Hania, the road zigzags down through chestnut trees to a junction leading to Zagora, the largest of the Pelion villages and a major fruit-growing centre – it’s the apple capital of Greece. Until blight ruined the silk industry in 1850, the town exported fine silk around the continent. The successful Zagora Agricultural Cooperative was founded in 1916 and has been instrumental in promoting a sustainable agricultural economy in the village region, making the village much less dependent on tourism than its mountain neighbours.
Two War of Independence landmarks have their roots in Zagora. The Skolio tou Riga Museum (Hellinomouseion; 24260 23708; 9am-2pm & 6-8pm) is dedicated to revolutionary war hero Rigas Fereos, who learned his history lessons well from a lone priest who taught the children in secret, hidden from the disapproving Turks. Starting with just 48 schoolbooks in 1767, the fascinating Library of Zagora ( 24260 22591; www.vivlzagoras.gr, in Greek; Mon-Sat) is now home to one of Greece’s largest collections of rare books and manuscripts.
For medical emergencies, contact the Zagora Health Centre ( 24260 22591), and for internet use, drop by Java Internet Café ( 24260 23452; Plateia Agia Kyriaki).
Sleeping & Eating
Villa Gayannis ( 24260 23391; www.villagayannis.gr; s/d/tr incl breakfast from €50/60/70; ) Also off Plateia Agios Georgios, this handsome villa is another good option.
Arhontiko Dhrakopoulou ( 24260 23566; fax 24260 23460; r incl breakfast €60) Don’t expect to find room numbers at this homey lodging off Plateia Agios Georgios, managed by the local women’s association. Instead, a local flower designates each of five simply furnished rooms.
Taverna O Petros ( 24260 23666; mains €4.50-7.50) Start out with a complimentary shot of local tsipouro,