Greece - Korina Miller [216]
Another prominent meeting point for locals is Kamara, the area around the Arch of Galerius on the northern side of Egnatia opposite Plateia Navarinou. Just east of Kamara, Egnatia intersects with Ethnikis Amynis; to the northeast of this intersection is the large Aristotle University, to the southeast, the HelExpo trade fair. After it crosses these facilities, Egnatia continues eastwards as Nea Egnatia. Taking Egnatia back westwards past Kamara and Plateia Aristotelous brings you to the cheap shopping/hotel district around Plateia Dimokratias. After this, Egnatia becomes Monastiriou and shortly passes the train station to the right, and continues towards the main bus station (3km further west).
Information
BOOKSHOPS
Bustart ( 2310 284 414; Grigoriou Palama 21) Sells art, design, photography and fashion books.
Travel Bookstore Traveller ( 2310 275 215; www.traveler.gr, in Greek; Proxenou Koromila 41) Hole-in-the-wall shop sells maps and Lonely Planet guides, among other travel titles.
EMERGENCY
Whenever closed, Thessaloniki pharmacies must display lists in the window stating which pharmacies in the vicinity should be open at that time.
Farmakeio Gouva-Peraki ( 2310 205 544; Agias Sofias 110, Ano Poli) Up in Ano Poli, this is a handy pharmacy with experienced staff.
Farmakeio Sofia Tympanidou ( 2310 522 155; Egnatia 17) Empathetic Kyria Sofia has long run this well-stocked pharmacy, and can often get hard-to-find medicines quickly.
First-Aid Centre ( 2310 530 530; Navarhou Koundourioti 10)
Ippokration ( 2310 837 921; Papanastasiou 50) Largest public hospital; 2km east of centre.
Port police ( 2310 531 504)
Tourist police ( 2310 554 871; 5th fl, Dodekanisou 4; 7.30am-11pm)
INTERNET ACCESS
e-Global (cnr Egnatia & Iasonidou; per hr €2.50; 24hr) Just as central, this place near Kamara is somewhat less boisterous than Web.
Web ( 2310 237 031; S Gonata 4, Plateia Navarinou; per hr €2.40; 24hr) Big, central and well-equipped, but often packed with loud teenage gamers.
LAUNDRY
Bianca Laundrette (Panagias Dexias 3; per 6kg load €7; 8am-8.30pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 8am-3pm Mon, Wed & Sat) In just two hours your clothes are washed, dried and folded at this no-nonsense laundromat powered by classic rock.
MONEY
Banks and ATMs are widespread, except in Ano Poli. Egnatia, Tsimiski, the port area and Plateies Navarinou and Aristotelous are well-served. Commission-hungry exchange offices line western Egnatia. The train station, bus station and ferry passenger terminals contain ATMs. Avoid travellers cheques if possible.
National Bank of Greece (Tsimiski 11) This historic structure is worth mentioning, mainly for its architectural grandeur.
PERMITS
Mt Athos Pilgrims Bureau ( Greek nationals 2310 252 575, foreign nationals 2310 252 578; pilgrimsbureau@c-lab.gr; Egnatia 109; 9am-1pm Mon-Fri, 10am-noon Sat) Issues permits for the Mt Athos monasteries.
POST
Post office Aristotelous (Aristotelous 26; 7.30am-8pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-2.15pm Sat, 9am-1.30pm Sun); Koundouriotou (Koundouriotou 6; 7.30am-2pm) The Koundouriotou branch is next to the port. The train station also has a post window.
TOURIST INFORMATION
Office of Tourism Directorate ( 2310 221 100; tour-the@otenet.gr; Tsimiski 136; 8am-8pm Mon-Fri, 8am-2pm Sat) The marvellously named new city tourism office occupies a grand building near the White Tower, replacing the former portside one. Friendly and well-informed staff provide assistance in English and German.
Sights
WHITE TOWER
The history of Thessaloniki’s most famous landmark, the pacific White Tower ( 2310 267 832; Lefkos Pyrgos; admission free; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun), is actually bathed in blood. In 1826, Ottoman Sultan Mahmud II ordered the massacre of janizaries (elite troops made up of forcibly Islamicised Christian boys) deemed disloyal. After the Greek reconquest in 1913, the ‘bloody tower’ was whitewashed to expunge this grisly past. Although the tower’s whitewash has long been removed, the name stuck. The tower’s new interactive museum presents