Greece - Korina Miller [229]
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HALKIDIKI ΧΑΛΚΙΔΙΚΗ
Immediately recognisable on maps for its three ‘fingers’ stretching into the North Aegean, the Halkidiki Peninsula has become all too famous for its tourist sprawl in summertime, when half of Thessaloniki descends for holidays. The first finger, Kassandra, has fared worst, filled with unimaginative villas, concrete and trinket shops. The second, Sithonia, remains somewhat less abused, and contains some truly magical beaches. Halkidiki’s third finger has largely escaped the clutches of modern development – most of it comprises the monastic community of Mt Athos (Agion Oros), open only to male pilgrims and accessible only by boat.
In summer, budget accommodation in Halkidiki is nonexistent and traffic makes getting there exasperatingly slow. For campers, however, more than 30 high-quality and inexpensive camping grounds are available. Halkidiki has long, sandy beaches surrounded by aquamarine seas and pine forests, and scattered islets. It’s best in September, when waters are warmest and the crowds are gone.
Kassandra Peninsula
Χερσóησος Κασσδρας
The Kassandra Peninsula is what happens when Greek urbanites go on vacation and bring their motorcycles, concrete sidewalks and consumerism with them. It’s not an oasis of tranquillity, but for nightlife it’s great.
After entering Kassandra proper, built-up Kallithea has fleshed-out discos and bars, and a long, crowded beach. For reasonable self-catering domatia with air-conditioning (rooms €50), ask at Kallithea Market, beside the bus stop for Thessaloniki. Manita Tours ( 23740 24036) in the town centre does day trips, including a boat tour (€30) to beaches on the Sithonia Peninsula opposite.
Kassandra has good camping grounds, especially at Posidi, where the EOT (Greek National Tourist Organisation) runs Camping Kalandra ( 23740 41123; May-Sep). Camping Anemi Beach ( 23740 71276; May-Sep), with space for 115 tents, is at Nea Skioni on the quieter western shore.
For island camping on deserted isles between Kassandra and Sithonia, contact Grigoris Delihristou ( 6979773905; backpackers_refuge@hotmail.com) of the Backpacker’s Refuge in Thessaloniki. For €100 per person, Greg takes small groups for four-day camping trips to these tiny islets surrounded by crystal-clear waters – luxuriate on the beach, swim or even go spear fishing. The price includes van and boat transport plus all food and drink – an astonishingly cheap adventure impossible to do independently.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Thirteen buses daily go from Thessaloniki’s Halkidiki bus terminal ( 23103 16555; www.in-ktel.gr, in Greek) to Kallithea (€7.60, 1½ hours) on the east coast; 10 go to Pefkohori (€10.20, two hours), also on the east coast, via Kryopigi and Haniotis; seven go to Paliouri (€11.10, two hours) on the southern tip.
Sithonian Peninsula Χερσóησος Σιθωας
Sithonia has better beaches, more spectacular natural beauty and a more relaxed feel than Kassandra. The southern end and eastern coastline have beautiful beaches; outside high summer, they’re yours.
The coast road loops around Sithonia, skirting wide bays, climbing into pine-forested hills and dipping down to the resorts.
WEST COAST
The west coast has long sandy beaches between Nikiti and Paradisos, notably Kalogria Beach and Lagomandra Beach. Beyond, Neos Marmaras is Sithonia’s largest resort, with a crowded beach but many domatia.
From Neos Marmaras the road climbs into the hills, from which roads (some dirt) descend to more beaches and camping grounds. Toroni and Porto Koufos, two small southwestern resorts, offer relaxing beaches and a yacht harbour sheltered in a deep bay, with domatia and fish tavernas. Sithonia’s relatively undeveloped southern tip is rocky, rugged and dramatic, with spectacular views of Mt Athos appearing as you rounding the southeastern tip.
Kalamitsi, with its gorgeous beach, has gotten overdeveloped, though it does have services such as boat rental at