Greece - Korina Miller [231]
Finally, eastern Macedonia’s Halkidiki Peninsula boasts the truly remarkable Domaine Gerovassiliou ( 23920 44567; 6937307740; www.gerovassiliou.gr; Epanomi village). Just 25km southeast of Thessaloniki – accessible by city buses – the winery is the passion of Vangelis Gerovassiliou. Among other achievements, this French-educated oenologist saved an indigenous Greek varietal, malagousia, from extinction in 1976. A man who loves his work, and who looks after every detail, Vangelis affirms that ‘we put great effort into everything we do here, as the visitor will understand not only when sampling the wines, but in enjoying our setting as well’.
Indeed, situated on a bluff overlooking the sea, Domaine Gerovassiliou is surrounded by sloping vineyards and herb gardens; on clear days, Mt Olympus itself rises from the horizon far across the water. See the fascinating museum of wine-related items, which include Mycenaean and Byzantine amphorae, antique cooper’s tools, handmade wine-presses dating from the 18th to 20th centuries, wine bottles (16th–20th centuries), and an eclectic collection of ornate corkscrews from the same period.
If you haven’t time to visit the wineries, sample some of their wine at any good Thessaloniki restaurant or bar. According to the Greek winemakers themselves, the city’s best wine-restaurants include Clochard ( 2310 239 805; www.clochard.gr, in Greek; Proxenou Koromila 4; mains €10-17; noon-2am Mon-Sat), serving Greek and French cuisine, and Mandragoras ( 2310 285 372; cnr Mitropoleos & Pavlou Mela; mains €8-14), which, according to Stellios Boutaris, ‘has the best wine list in Salonica’.
Finally, each March the Thessaloniki International Wine Competition presents hand-picked foreign experts and local producers to the public. It’s sponsored by the Wine Producers Association of Northern Greece (www.wineroads.gr, in Greek).
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Haus Theodora ( 23750 94341; www.sarti-theodora.gr; apt €50), overlooking Sarti beach’s northern end, offers brightly painted modern studios with spacious balconies.
Kivotos ( 23750 94143; mains €5-9) on the central waterfront offers great grilled fish on a table in the sand. Owner Daniel can help with finding rooms.
Between Sarti and Panagia the loop roads meet up and things get more interesting. Sithonia’s best camping grounds and beaches are here. Rent a scooter to explore; 6km north of Sarti is a turn-off leading to Kavourotrypes (Crab Holes) – several small rocky coves great for swimming. Some 13km further north is popular Vourvourou, which has camping grounds and rooms for rent. Although it feels a bit packaged, the spacious Hotel Vergos ( 23750 91379; www.halkidiki.com/vergos; s/d/apt incl breakfast €58/63/105; ) offers well-furnished rooms in a relaxed setting with a big lawn for kids.
A short dirt road from the centre leads to Vourvourou’s best beach, Karydi. Backed by shady pine trees, this beach is an ideal mix of sand, rocks and solitude. Another sandy beach is at Ormos Panagias, 1km north.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
Buses leave from Thessaloniki’s east-side Halkidiki bus terminal ( 23103 16555; www.in-ktel.gr, in Greek) for Neos Marmaras (€11.20, 2½ hours, seven daily), Sarti (€15.80, 3½ hours, five daily) and Vourvourou (€10.50, four daily). Most of the Sarti buses loop around the Sithonian Peninsula, enjoying coastal views.
Getting to Sithonia from Kassandra by bus requires changing at Nea Moudania, at the foot of Kassandra.
Athos Peninsula (Secular Athos)
Χερσóησος Αθω
The third finger of Halkidiki is visited by both beachgoers, in the northerly stretches, and by religious pilgrims going to the isolated monastic community that takes up the mountainous southeastern part. There’s no land entry allowed between the two sections.
At the northwestern,