Greece - Korina Miller [238]
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The narrow, tangled streets of the Panagia quarter are lined with pretty pastel houses, great for an evening stroll and atmospheric dining. The grandest of several well-preserved 18th-century buildings here is the Imaret ( 25102 20151; www.imaret.gr; Poulidou 6). This huge 18-domed structure overlooking the harbour was built in 1817 by Pasha Mehmet Ali as a hostel for Islamic theology students. Since being transformed into a very exclusive hotel, the restored House of Mehmet Ali is no longer open for public viewing.
Rapsani Beach, 2km west, is popular in summer and good enough for swimming, though Batis Beach a bit further west is more popular with locals.
Sleeping
Kavala’s hotels remain primarily staid, business-oriented and pricy. When various organised groups descend, the whole town can be inexplicably booked out. For a nominal fee (€1), the tourist information centre will be happy to telephone hotels and check availability – sometimes, getting you a slight discount in the process, and keeping you from having to wander aimlessly in the heat.
Batis Beach Camping ( 25102 45918; camp sites per adult/tent €6/4.90) This is a small, decent camping ground 3km west on the best Kavala-area beach.
Giorgos Alvanos Rooms ( 25102 21781; Anthemiou 35; s/d €20/30) Kavala’s best budget option has simple rooms with shared bathrooms in a 300-year-old house up in Panagia. Rooms have refrigerators and sea views. It’s a steep walk uphill to get here, so call in advance.
Galaxy Hotel ( 25102 24521; Eleftheriou Venizelou 27; s/d €40/50; ) Opposite the tourist information centre, the Galaxy is showing the ravages of time, offering ordinary, old-style rooms, and indifferent service, though it is central. Some rooms have port view.
Oceanis Kavala Hotel ( 25102 21981; Leoforos Erythrou Stavrou 32; s/d incl breakfast €68/82; ) More expensive than the Galaxy but higher quality also, this big, business hotel one street back from the waterfront has comfortable, well-maintained modern rooms with balconies, a big cafe area and wi-fi.
Imaret ( 25106 20151; www.imaret.gr; Poulidou 6; s/d/ste incl breakfast €250/360/1500; ) The world’s your oyster at the Imaret, one of Greece’s poshest hotels. It seeks to complement the original stone architecture devised by Pasha Mehmet Ali in the early 19th century with modern luxuries and elegant lighting. The huge rooms, with vaulted ceilings, harbour views and large fireplaces, are located around three inner courtyards. A Turkish hammam has been lavishly restored; there’s a candle-lit indoor pool for essential-oil treatments, a reading room and even an orangerie.
Eating & Drinking
Panagia’s elevated lanes and the eastern waterfront have good fish tavernas, while cafe-bars line the western waterfront.
Perigyros ( 25102 83440; cnr Erythmou Stavrou & Dagkli; souvlaki €2.60; 10am-2am) This busy, well-kept souvlaki joint beside Oceanis Kavala Hotel serves nourishing quick eats, salad, and heftier portions for cheap.
Limonidis Bougatsa ( 25108 32526; cnr Ionos Dragoumi & Megas Alexandrou; bougatsa €3.20; 6am-2pm) Behind the tourist information centre, this canopied outdoor bougatsadhiko (place where a bougatsa, cream pie, is served) is excellent for breakfast and espresso.
Psarotaverna Nikiforos ( 25102 28167; Plateia Karaoli 44; mains €6-9; 10am-1am) This handsomely appointed fish taverna serves good ouzerie fare; the adjoining cafe’s popular with students.
Psarotaverna Panos Zafira ( 25102 27978; cnr Plateia Karaoli Dimitriou; fish €9-15; 10am-1am) Since 1965, this friendly place on the eastern waterfront has been serving fresh fish dishes, along with regular taverna fare.
Omilos (port; 10am-late) Watch the boats bob in the harbour from the draped blue-and-white-striped couches at this