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of the major tholos (tumulose) leads to the four individual tombs. Tomb I is called Persephone’s Tomb, after an intact mural depicting Hades’ rape of Persephone. Tomb II probably belonged to Philip II. Intact until its discovery in 1977, the tomb yielded a gold larnax (ossuary) with bones. The 16-pointed star of the royal Macedonian family on the larnax lid, and damage to the skull identical with descriptions of an injury Philip sustained, pointed to its likely inhabitant. Philip’s larnax and that of his presumed concubine or wife, plus some exquisite gold-leaf diadems, are displayed in the exhibition rooms. Tomb III was probably designated for Alexander IV, son of Alexander the Great, while the mysterious Tomb IV was looted in antiquity.

To see more of the site, continue 400m past the Royal Tombs to the ruins of an extensive palatial complex, summer residence of 3rd-century-BC king Antigonos Gonatas. The main attraction is a large Doric peristyle, surrounded by floors of pebble-mosaic; the most beautiful has a geometric floral design.

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EDESSA ΕΔΕΣΣΑ

pop 16,000

Verdant Edessa (edh-eh-sah) is best known for its great waterfalls that keep the air moist and refreshing even on hot summer days. Its attractive, though dilapidated, old quarter, little streams, shaded parks and a Byzantine bridge are other sites in this town perched precariously on a ledge overlooking the seemingly endless agricultural plain below. Edessa’s exciting recent improvements on the accommodation scene (see Sleeping, opposite) also make a further case for it as a good base for further forays into western Macedonia, such as tours of nearby wineries (see Wineries of Northern Greece, Click here).

Until 1977, when Vergina’s royal tombs were discovered, Edessa was thought to be the ancient Macedonian city of Aigai. With the government’s Hellenisation project in Macedonia following the 1923 Greek-Turkish population exchanges, the town’s long-existing Slavic name of Voden (‘place of water’) was replaced with the archaic name, Edessa.

Orientation

The central bus station occupies the corner of Filippou and Pavlou Mela. From there cross Filippou and follow Pavlou Mela to the T-junction; turning right puts you in the centre on Dimokratias. The train station, on Leoforos Nikis, is a 10-minute walk along 18 Oktovriou to the centre.

Edessa’s waterfalls and the Varosi old quarter are well signposted. If lost, ask a local for the kataraktes (waterfalls).

Information

ATM-equipped banks line Dimokratias.

Police ( 23810 23333; Iroön Polytehniou)

Post office (Dimokratias 26)

Tourist information office ( 23810 23101; www.edessacity.gr; 10am-8pm) This helpful office in a kiosk before the waterfalls provides maps of Edessa and nearby attractions.

Sights

Edessa’s waterfalls emerge beyond the well-signposted park near the tourist office. The biggest thunders dramatically down a high cliff, filling the air with moisture. Enter the observation deck inside this waterfall and breathe in the mist from the crashing waters in front of your nose. Just before the observation deck is a small cave (admission €1), inside the cliff mass.

A winding path downwards accesses a second, less impressive waterfall. Further right, the Water Museum (adult €2; 11am-4pm Wed-Mon) exhibits various water-industry equipment and a pretty, wild aquarium, with various species of fish, amphibians, snapping turtles, poisonous snakes and one cranky, cooped-up crocodile.

Along the escarpment ridge south lies Varosi, Edessa’s old quarter, with cobbled streets, chapels and traditional houses. The colourful Folkloric Museum (adult €2; 10am-5pm Tue-Sun) is here too. Turning the other way from the waterfalls through the park brings you to Edessa’s very pretty Byzantine bridge, once part of the ancient Via Egnatia.

Activities

For outdoor activities, see Giannis Hatziantoniou ( 6944991075) who arranges hiking expeditions, cycling tours and GPS orienteering trips. Tasos Privartitsanis ( 6977248581) organises paragliding and hang-gliding trips. George Mousios ( 6973743127;