Greece - Korina Miller [249]
Information
Credit Bank (Grammou) Has ATMs.
Municipal tourist office ( /fax 24670 26777; www.kastoria.gr, in Greek; 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Brochures, maps and information; in the lakeside park.
Police station ( 24670 83214; Grammou) Near the bus station.
Post office (Leoforos Megalou Alexandrou)
Sights & Activities
Kastoria’s Byzantine churches were mainly originally chapels attached to arhontika. Most are locked; find a caretaker to enter.
External frescoes are visible, however, at some churches, such as Taxiarhia of the Metropolis (Plateia Pavlou Mela), south of Plateia Omonias, with its 13th-century fresco of the Madonna and Child above the entrance. It also contains the sacrosanct tomb of Pavlos Melas, the main military leader associated with the 1904–08 ‘Macedonian Struggle’ in which Greek militants sought to annex the then-Ottoman region to Greece proper.
The Byzantine Museum ( 24670 26781; Plateia Dexamenis; admission free; 8.30am-3pm Tue-Sun) houses outstanding local icons.
Most arhontika occupy Doltso, southern Kastoria. Most significant are the Emmanouil, Basara, Natzi, Skoutari, Papia and Papaterpou mansions, named after the families that inhabited them.
One nice arhontika is now the must-see Kastorian Museum of Folklore ( 24670 28603; Kapetan Lazou; adult €2; 8.30am-2pm Tue-Sun). This 530-year-old house, formerly belonging to the wealthy Nerantzis Aïvazis family, is sumptuously furnished, displaying ornaments, kitchen utensils and tools.
Noon and evening boat cruises (€5, 1¼ hours) on Lake Orestiada start at the north-side Psaradika Quay. Since the lake is not very clean, neither swimming nor fishing is recommended.
Festivals & Events
The Nestorio River Festival (www.riverparty.gr, in Greek), held in July on the wooded banks of the Nestorio River west of town, is a popular six-day event featuring famous Greek singers and ambient DJs. It draws around 10,000 young people, many of whom camp on the river. Along with the music, fun distractions include paintball, archery, sports and modern art. See the website for scheduled performances, camping and hotel accommodation options, and ticket vendors. If in Thessaloniki, try Ticket House ( 2310 253 630; cnr Ethnikis Amynis & Tsimiski).
During the festival, KTEL Kastoria runs special buses to Nestorio. There’s organised, full-service camping, plus guest houses; the festival organisers can help book accommodation.
If you happen to be in Kastoria in winter, the local Ragkountsaria Festival (6–10 January), with likely pagan roots, features traditional dancing, costumed merrymaking and much eating and drinking.
The annual International Fur Exhibition (www.furfair.gr) draws big crowds. Check the website for dates and other information.
Sleeping
Kastoria is primarily a business destination, making prices high, but negotiable.
Hotel Orestion ( 24670 22257; Plateia Davaki 1; s/d €40/50; ) This well-renovated business hotel has sleek modern rooms and the expected amenities, with deep couches and a tucked-away lounge bar.
Dhiston ( 24670 22250; Leoforos Megalou Alexandrou 91; d/tr €60/75) Upstairs from one of Kastoria’s oldest cafes, these spacious suites have great lake views. The French- and English-speaking manager provides maps and information.
Katerina Suites ( 24670 24645; Leoforos Megalou Alexandrou 127; s/d €60/80) These four suites with lake views can accommodate up to five people each. Suites are clean, modern and spacious; book ahead.
Arhondiko tou Vergoula ( 24670 23415; sfinas@otenet.gr; Aidistras 14; d/tr incl breakfast €75/100; ) This restored 150-year-old mansion in a quiet quarter has lovely lake views, and is decorated with pieces from the owners’ Asian adventures, giving it an exotic feel. Rooms are breezy and well maintained. It also has a cosy breakfast/dinner salon.
Eating
Kratergo ( 24670 22981; Orestion 19, Psaradika; mains €6-9; 8pm-2am) This north-side lakefront taverna is worth the 20-minute drive. Featuring well-prepared Greek specialities, it has a great feel about it, with impressive stone