Greece - Korina Miller [254]
Orientation & Information
The train station is 1km southwest on Panagi Tsaldari. The bus station is a five-minute walk north-northeast to the oblong Plateia Irinis, centre of Komotini’s little universe. This square is unmissable, and not only because of the unexpected playground in the form of a pirate ship that stands in the middle of it; most ATMs, hotels, eateries and cafes are here too. Komotini’s main attractions are all within walking distance.
Explorer Net Store ( 25310 32535; Nikolaou Zoidi 52; per hr €2; 24hr) Central internet cafe.
Hospital ( 25310 24601; Sismanoglou 45) It’s 900m southeast of Plateia Irinis.
Police ( 25310 34444)
Sights
Sparse remains of Komotini’s 4th-century AD Byzantine Fortress, built by Emperor Theodosius, lie near Plateia Irinis. Only the ruins of one out of 16 original towers survive. Nearby, the Church of the Assumption of Mary (Ekklisia Kimisis Theotokou), built in 1800 on the site of an earlier Byzantine shrine, contains 16th-century icons and wood carvings.
Thracian archaeological finds are displayed at the classy Archaeological Museum ( 25310 22411; Simeonidi 4; admission free; 8.30am-5pm). The collection, accompanied by informative English-language wall texts detailing ancient Thracian history, also contains Roman coins, clay figurines, delicate gold wreaths and Byzantine glazed ceramics. The helpful staff will guide you and provide a detailed map showing the major archaeological sites in Thrace and Eastern Macedonia.
Valuable post-Byzantine icons are displayed at the Ecclesiastic Museum (Imaret; 25310 34177; Xenofontos 8; admission €3; 10.30am-1.30pm Tue-Sun, 5-8pm Wed-Fri). The museum occupies Komotini’s most unique building, an early Ottoman almshouse (ptohokomeio in Greek), occupying an enclosed courtyard. The structure’s brickwork and design resemble a Byzantine church; indeed, it was built around 1363 by Gazi Ervinoz Bey, the Ottoman conqueror of Byzantine Komotini. Besides the marvellous icons, occasional surprises such as 500-year-old printed gospels, silver ceremonial crosses, gold embroidery and 18th-century Hebrew scrolls are kept.
Just behind Plateia Irinis Komotini’s relaxing Turkish quarter begins, lined with quaint old houses, barber shops and tea-houses. Sights include the Clock Tower (Orologio), built in 1884, Yeni Camii (‘New Mosque’ in Turkish) and Eski Camii. The latter mosque, dating from 1608, still operates, despite the flowers growing out of its roof.
Sleeping
Komotini remains a business destination, and so somewhat expensive. Midrange hotels are classy and close to the action.
Orpheus Hotel ( 25310 37180; orfhotel@otenet.gr; Parassiou 1; s/d/tr €40/50/60; ) With its prominent location at the entrance to the plateia and its big windows, you can’t miss the Orpheus. The hotel has nicely restored and soundproofed modern rooms. Management is welcoming and friendly.
Hotel Astoria ( 25310 22707; www.astoriakomotini.gr; Plateia Irinis 28; d €57; ) More elegant than the Orpheus, but easier to miss, the Astoria is concealed by the square’s side cafes. Its modern rooms have attractive, understated decor and amenities, plus small balconies overlooking the square.
Eating & Drinking
Nedim ( 25310 22036; cnr Leoforosoros Orfeos & Syntagmatos Kriton; sweets €2-4) This emporium of traditional sweets has been serving perhaps the best baklava this side of İstanbul since 1950. Try saray kataïfi, a delicate golden treat of the Ottoman palace, and samali, a sweet cake with almonds, flavoured by aromatic Chios mastic. Thirty-five kinds of traditional sweets on display for sale include the monstrous soutzouk loukoumi – thick Turkish delight dusted with confectioner’s sugar, and shaped like a giant, curling sausage. Delicious!
To Sokaki tis Lakokolas ( 25310 81800; Parasiou 5; mains €5-7; noon-midnight) In an underpass opposite Emboriki Bank, this lively taverna has simple, nourishing grills and salads, and attentive service. Try the yiaourtlou