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icons, many brought by refugees from Asia Minor and Turkish Thrace, are exhibited at the Ecclesiastical Art Museum of Alexandroupoli ( 25510 26359; Plateia Agiou Nikolaou; adult €3; 9am-2pm Tue-Fri, 10am-2pm Sat). The museum also contains early printed Greek books and is adjacent to the Cathedral of Agios Nikolaos (Plateia Agiou Nikolaou); which boasts a miracle-working 13th-century icon of the Panagia Trifotissa, brought from Aenos (Enez in Turkish) across the Evros River. The story goes that by praying before the icon, villagers whose eyes had been damaged by the glare of sunlight reflected on the salt marshes around Aenos had their vision restored.

Since swimming isn’t good in Alexandroupoli itself, head 4km west to Demirali Beach, preferred by locals. This sandy beach with clear waters hosts a famous local restaurant, Ai Giorgis (right).

Sleeping

Camping Alexandroupoli ( 25510 26055; Leoforos Makris; camp sites per adult/tent €5/4.50) This large camping ground (2km west) is clean, well-run and has good facilities. Take local bus 7 from Plateia Eleftherias.

Hotel Mitropolis ( 25510 26443; Athanasiou Dhiakou; s/d/tr €30/40/50; ) This dated budget hotel is close to the water and good restaurants and cafes, though fixtures are old and service is hit-or-miss.

Hotel Alex ( 25510 26302; Leoforos Dimokratias 294; s/d/tr €35/40/50; ) Up on the main street, this decent budget option has good, though cramped, rooms and the necessary amenities. Front-facing rooms get street noise.

Hotel Bao Bab ( 25510 34823; Alexandroupoli-Komotini Hwy; s/d/tr €40/60/70; ) Just 1km west of town, this lavish waterfront hotel has large, comfortable rooms. There’s decent swimming on the sandy, shallow beach. Adding in the excellent restaurant and lounge bar, this is likely the Alexandroupoli area’s best value for money.

Hotel Marianna ( 25510 81456; fax 25510 81455; Malgaron 11; s/d €45/60) This friendly downtown hotel has small, though clean and fresh-smelling, rooms and a colourful breakfast area. Hospitable owners Georgios Hrysohoidis and his Italian wife Patricia cumulatively speak English, Italian, French, Spanish, German and Greek.

Eating

Nea Klimataria ( 25510 26288; Plateia Polytehniou; mains €5-8) This heavy-duty, popular place on the square is not setting records, but it does have tasty prepared dishes, good roast chicken and big salads.

Psarotaverna tis Kyra Dimitras ( 25510 34434; cnr Kountourioti & Dikastirion; fish €6-11) Venerable old Kyra Dimitra is still running the show at this seafood restaurant, in the family since 1915. Choose from the daily catch, set out on ice at the front; tsipoura (sea bream) is tasty and only €20 per kilo, while a plateful of small crunchy fish makes for a scrumptious lunch. In summer, the amiable Kyra Dimitra might surprise you with a plate of complementary watermelon.

Ai Giorgis ( 25510 71777; Demirali Beach; fish €7-10; 10am-1am) On Demirali Beach, 4km west, this waterfront taverna is a local favourite, with smooth wood floors and candle-lit tables. Everything is good, from the varied salads and stuffed mushrooms to fish dishes.

To Nisiotiko ( 25510 20990; Zarifi 1; fish €8-14) This west-side waterfront fish taverna has ambience, with eclectic decor, but prices are steep.

Drinking

Alexandroupoli’s cool nightspots change with the whims of its students. Leoforos Dimokratias has trendy bars, while cafes line the waterfront. For a unique Alexandroupoli beer bar, see Beer Essentials, Click here.

La Sera ( 25510 38765; Plateia Polytehniou; 10am-3am) This smooth bar near the water is lit by little red candles, and is popular with both students and the older set.

Shopping

Myrsini ( 25510 31205; www.silkyhouse.gr; Plateia Polytehniou) This family-run business sells Soufli silk originals, from silk table runners (€15 to €100) and ornate raw silk scarves (€20) to enormous silk spreads embellished with a Byzantine double-headed eagle and floral motifs (€807).

Getting There & Away

AIR

Alexandroupoli’s Dimokritos Airport is 7km east of town near Loutra.

Olympic Air ( 25510 26361; www.olympicairlines.com;