Greece - Korina Miller [265]
The Archaeological Museum ( 26510 33357; Plateia 25 Martiou 6), containing finds from Dodoni, Vitsa and Efira, still remained closed for renovations at the time of writing.
Activities
The relaxing, one-hour lake cruise ( 6944470280; tickets €5; 10am-midnight Mon-Sun summer, Sat & Sun winter) departs from near the Island ferry quay. Since swimming is not advisable, this is the only way to experience the lake.
Serious hikers should first get the map (Anavasi Mountain Editions; Pindus-Zagori 1:50,000), available for €8 from local periptera (street kiosks) or at Papasotiriou Bookstore (opposite), and then get apprised with current conditions at the EOT or EOS (see opposite).
Sleeping
Perama, 10 minutes by bus around the lake, has cheap domatia. Most Ioannina hotels are near the noisy central plateia; for tranquillity and atmosphere, stay inside the Kastro.
Limnopoula Camping ( 26510 25265; Kanari 10; camp sites per adult/tent €8/4; Apr-Oct) A breezy lakeside camping ground 2km northwest, Limnopoula has fine facilities, including a kitchen, laundry and nearby restaurant, though note again that swimming is not advisable.
Filyra ( 26510 83560, 6932601240; Andronikou Paleologou 18; s/d €45/55) This flower-bedecked boutique hotel inside the Kastro has five spacious self-catering suites on a quiet side street, and friendly and helpful owners.
Dafni Traditional Hotel ( 26510 83560, 6932601240; Ioustinianou 12; s/d €45/65) This remarkable new traditional guest house is actually built into the inside of the Kastro’s enormous outer walls. Rooms combine traditional and modern amenities, and there’s one grand, well-decorated family room (€90). Reception is at the Filyra.
Hotel Kastro ( 26510 22866; Andronikou Paleologou 57; s/d €75/90; ) This restored Kastro mansion overlooking Its Kale has great atmosphere: antique brass beds, stained-glass windows and a tranquil courtyard create a feeling of romantic seclusion. Service is friendly and prompt.
Olympic ( 26510 22233; www.hotelolymp.gr, in Greek; Melanidhis 2; s/d €90/110; ) Book ahead for this, Ioannina’s poshest hotel. Rooms have amenities and great lake views, and there’s even a red carpet; shame then that there’s little seclusion or tradition in this noisy central spot.
Politeia ( 26510 22235; www.etip.gr; Anexartisias 109; s/d/ste incl breakfast €90/110/170; ) This central place set around a quiet inner courtyard and cafe offers studios with kitchenette and all mod cons. Rooms are tastefully decorated and painted in soft tones.
Eating
Most of Ioannina’s best places only open for dinner.
Mystagogia ( 26510 34571; Koundouriotou 44; mains €6; dinner) A popular late-night tsipouradhiko (place serving tsipoura – an ouzo-like spirit – and light snacks), the studenty Mystagogia has nourishing mezedhes and good beef keftedhes (meatballs).
Stoa Louli ( 26510 71322; Anexartisias 78; mains €7-12) The Stoa Louli has seen many incarnations since being built in 1875; first it was an inn, later a trade centre for Jewish leather merchants, and even an Ottoman Bank. This tastefully lit place, fronted by grand arches, serves an alluring range of Greek favourites with a contemporary twist.
Es Aei ( 26510 34571; Koundouriotou 50; mains €8-12) This favourite haunt of local and foreign gastronomes combines an Ottoman flair with a unique, glass-roofed courtyard dining room. Its inventive dishes include mezedhes made from organic ingredients and Ioannina specials including grilled pork sausages.
1900 Café Restaurant ( 26510 33131; Neoptolemou 9; mains €10-15; dinner Sep-Jun) If you want to wow a date – or simply enjoy a really good Italian meal – this is the place to come. Genial owner Miltos Miltiadis provides