Greece - Korina Miller [268]
Although time and emigration have left some villages mostly uninhabited, shed no tears: the rise of boutique and environmental tourism has led savvy locals to prosper by converting the Zagorohoria’s arhontika and smaller traditional homes into lovely and unique xenones (guest houses); indeed, their growing popularity with Greek and foreign tourists has also made them quite expensive.
The Zagorohoria’s fascinating history is bound up with the dismemberment of Byzantium by the Latin Crusaders in 1204, and the subsequent Turkish capture of Constantinople in 1453; in both cases, numerous important Greek families fled the capital for the mountain fastnesses of Epiros, where Greek culture and traditions could be safeguarded.
In Ottoman times, the Zagorohoria also received privileges and autonomy for guarding the mountain passes. This, together with the remittances and gifts sent from the large Epirot diaspora abroad, funded the upkeep of the villages and their great churches, in whose lavish decorations we can appreciate what the holy shrines of Byzantium would have looked like in their prime.
Vikos-Aoös National Park Εθικóς Δρυμóς Βκου Αώου
The Zagorohoria’s literal and figurative centrepiece, the Vikos-Aoös National Park, bursts with pristine rivers and forests, flowering meadows, and shimmering lakes reflecting jagged mountains and endless blue sky. Almost one-third of Greece’s flora (some endemic) lives here, along with endemic fish, foxes and chamois, rare hawks, river otters and brown bears. The park’s major Tymfi Massif, part of the north Pindos Mountains, contains numerous ear-popping peaks including Mt Trapezitsa (2022m), Mt Astraka (2436m) and Mt Gamila (2497m). The 12km-long Vikos Gorge passing beneath them may be the world’s deepest.
While most people you encounter will be fellow hikers or their local hosts, you can still find seminomadic Vlach and Sarakatsani shepherds, taking their flocks up to high grazing ground in summer and returning to the valleys in autumn.
Dilofo & Negades Δλοφο & Νεγδες
From Ioannina, the first Zagorohoria village is enchanting Dilofo, 5.7km northeast of Asprangeli (32km from Ioannina total). Unlike the larger and more visited villages, tiny Dilofo has only recently awoken from its slumber and thus remains still and unchanged. Its jumbled slate-roofed houses tucked into a mountainside are highly evocative, and there’s a great view across the valley to Koukouli.
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HIKING THE ZAGOROHORIA: THE GRAND TOUR
To see the Zagorohoria at its most spectacular, get off the roads and into nature. You don’t necessarily need a guide, but get updated on conditions from the EOT or EOS Click here in Ioannina first. Also essential is the Pindus-Zagori 1:50,000 map from Anavasi Mountain Edition (www.mountains.gr; €8), available in Ioannina, Monodendri, Papingo and in some guest houses in other villages too, or on the Anavasi website. Armed with this information and tough hiking boots, a compass, sunscreen, sticks and water, you’re good to go.
Along with numerous day hikes, a three-day ‘grand tour’ is possible, sleeping in guest houses and mountain huts along the way.
One such hike goes from Monodendri to Tsepelovo. From Monodendri the trail leads through the stunning Vikos Gorge to the Papingo villages (6½ hours). From here it’s another three hours to the Astraka Hut ( 6973223100; dm €10; May-Oct), at 1950m. There’s no phone or electricity, but the 52-bed hut is always open and has a warden, generator power