Greece - Korina Miller [274]
Nearby Ganadio has even more impressive stonework, but no accommodation. The village is more than 450 years old, and taking a leisurely stroll along its cluttered, old stone houses and flower gardens in the warm summer evening shadows is a real pleasure.
Ganadio also has a cafe where the elderly locals keep loose, and the grand Church of Agii Taxiarhes (Church of the Holy Archangels, 1870) opposite. It’s not likely to be open, so ask someone in the cafe to find charismatic local priest Ioannis, who will be glad to show you around and, if you’re lucky, have you over for a crisp distilled beverage on his patio. The stone church has unusual blue-painted walls, and its eclectic decor testifies to the contributions of local artisans and the Epirot diaspora: the hand-carved wood iconostasis was made in Gjirokastër (Argyrokastro in Greek) in Albania, while ornaments from Bucharest, Russian icons and lavish wall murals attest to diaspora funding.
The Petrina Hora are never crowded, though the summer panigyria (festivals) on 15 and 20 of August, celebrating saint’s days with music, dancing and traditional food and drink, liven things up in Ganadio. Nevertheless, if you’re going in spring or autumn you’ll have the place to yourself, and there are plenty of wonderful local walks to enjoy.
Getting There & Away
From Konitsa’s bus station ( 26550 22214) there are buses to Bourazani (€1.20, 30 minutes, four daily) and to Molista and Ganadio (€2.30, two weekly).
It’s better to drive to Molista or Ganadio than take the bus. From the entrance to Konitsa, head north on the national road (towards Kastoria) for 17.2km; a sign reading ‘traditional stone villages’ will appear. Turn right here and follow the next sign to Molista (2km).
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PREVEZA ΠΡΕΒΕΖΑ
pop 17,724
Set on a peninsula between the Ionian Sea and the Ambracian Gulf, Preveza (preh-veh-zah) is a small fishing and commercial port beautified by yachts in the harbour and painted houses in its narrow backstreets. However, despite its small student population and some holidaying Greeks, Preveza is more a waystation for nearby beach resorts and a destination for business travellers than anything else. Nevertheless, it’s an attractive town with friendly locals, and worth visiting for a relaxing seafood lunch and for a wander through the old streets.
Orientation & Information
From the bus station, 2km north of centre, the major thoroughfare is Leoforos Irinis; the main sights are between it and the water, hemmed in by the (closed) Venetian Castle of Agios Andreas on the north. Ethnikis Andistasis, roughly parallel with Loeoforos Irinis and two blocks up from the waterfront, holds banks, ATMs and shops. The street’s prominent clocktower marks the centre; restaurants line the nearby alleys, while the waterfront has cafes.
An underwater car tunnel (€3) linking Preveza with Aktion to the south starts about 2.5km west of Preveza centre; there are no passenger ferries between Preveza and Aktion.
NetcaféAscot ( 26820 27746; Balkou 6; per hr €3; 9.30am-2am)
Tourist information ( 26820 21078; www.preveza.gr, in Greek; Balkou) Opposite NetcaféAscot.
Sleeping
Camping Kalamitsi ( 26820 22192; Kalamitsi; camp sites per adult/tent €6/4; ) Preveza’s best camping ground, 4km along the main Preveza–Parga road, has 116 grassed sites with ample shade, a large pool, restaurant, and good services.
Rooms O Kaihis ( 26820 24866; Parthenagogiou 7; s/d €20/30) Above the taverna of the same name, this new place is the best budget destination in town, with simple but clean rooms near the waterfront.
Hotel Avra ( 26820 21230; www.hotelavra.net, in Greek; Eleftheriou Venizelou 19; s/d €40/60; ) Avra prides itself on