Greece - Korina Miller [288]
Pension Alkionides ( 22980 54055; www.alkionidespension.com; off Oikonomou; d/tr €60/75, ste €100-120;) The Alkionides is in a peaceful cul-de-sac and has a pretty courtyard. Rooms are smart, though some are quite small, and they have tea- and coffee-making facilities.
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Hotel Leto ( 22980 53385; www.letohydra.gr; off Miaouli; s €123-137, d €160-180, tr €197-220; ) Stylish, modernist decor, spacious rooms and a relaxing atmosphere make Leto one of Hydra’s classiest hotels. The price ranges depend on such variables as room size, balconies and floor location. There’s one fully equipped room for disabled use. Buffet breakfast is included and there’s a fitness studio, sauna and bar.
Angelica Hotel ( 22980 53202; www.angelica.gr; Miaouli; s €130-160, d €150-180, tr €220; ) An attractive boutique hotel in a quiet location, the Angelica has comfortable, luxurious rooms, all individually themed and named after Greek gods. There’s a minipool and Jacuzzi and relaxing public areas.
Hotel Orloff ( 22980 52564; www.orloff.gr; Rafalia; s/d incl breakfast €160/200; ) There’s a marvellous sense of historic Hydra without stuffiness at this beautiful, old mansion. A Russian admiral of the 18th century gave his name to the original house. The comfortable rooms have elegant furnishings and there’s a lovely garden in which buffet breakfast is served. It’s family-run and the welcome is warm.
Eating
You’ll pay extra for basic coffee at some of the harbour-front cafes, but lively people-watching comes with it.
Creperie Mikro Café ( 22980 52335; Oikonomou; meals €3-7.20; 10am-1am) A handy budget option, just inland from the harbour, this little place offers sandwiches and hamburgers as well as crepes.
Isalos Café ( 22980 53845; snacks €3.50-7) A good bet right by the ferry dock, Isalos offers decent snacks and drinks at reasonable prices.
Taverna Gitoniko (Manolis & Christina; 22980 53615; Spilios Haramis; mains €4-9) Greek atmosphere with Greek courtesy is the tone at this long-established place that is better known by the first names of its owners, a sure sign of continuity and family tradition. Classic Greek favourites, such as zucchini balls, spinach pies and dolmadhes are tops, as is the local lamb. The family was in the process of building a new taverna on Tombazi, which should be open by the time you read this.
Paradosiako ( 22980 54155; Tombazi; mains €7-15) This little streetside mezedhopoleio (restaurant specialising in mezedhes) is traditional Greek personified. Classic pies come in cheese, beef, shrimp and vegie varieties and favourite mezedhes are plentiful. A bottle of decent wine starts at about €12, but the house wine at €7 is just fine.
Bratsera ( 22980 52794; Tombazi; mains €9-20; 1-4pm & 8-11pm Apr-Oct) The in-house restaurant by the pool of the Bratsera Hotel makes imaginative use of fresh local ingredients and sources the best cuts of meat. There’s even fresh salmon when available. The wine list is equally selective.
Sunset ( 22980 52067; mains €9-22) Famed by name alone for its splendid location a short distance to the west of the harbour, the Sunset throws in live Greek music in summer to accompany such longstanding favourite starters as mackerel salad. Local fish are well prepared with mains such as grilled sea bream marinated in herbs, and meat and pasta dishes are also done with flair.
There’s a supermarket, fruit shop and fish market just inland, mid-harbour side. O Fournos is an aroma-rich bakery next to the Pirate club across the alleyway.
Drinking & Entertainment
Hydra’s harbour front revs up at night, when daytime cafes become hot music bars. Most bars are at the far end of the harbour, where places like Pirate ( 22980 52711) and Saronikos ( 22980 52589) keep going until dawn. Most play lounge sounds by day; at night Pirate plays rock, while Saronikos goes more for Greek pop.
Notionally closing in the ‘early hours’, the definitely red-hot Red ( 6974421398) has been known to keep things rocking for days at a time.