Greece - Korina Miller [291]
Post office ( 7.30am-2pm Mon-Fri) On the street running behind the seafront hotels.
Sights
The Spetses museum ( 22980 72994; adult/concession €3/2; 8.30am-2.30pm Tue-Sun) is housed in the old mansion of Hatzigiannis Mexis (1754–1844), a shipowner who became the island’s first governor. The collections on view are not extensive, but are fascinating. They include traditional costumes, folkloric items and portraits of the island’s founding fathers. Most have Greek and English annotations. To reach the museum, go straight up from the top left-hand corner of Plateia Orologiou, turn left at the junction and then right, then follow the signposts.
The mansion of Spetses’ famous daughter, the 19th-century seagoer Laskarina Bouboulina, has been converted into Bouboulina’s Museum ( 22980 72416; www.bouboulinamuseum-spetses.gr; adult/concession/child €5/3/1; 10am-9pm Mar-Oct). Times may vary. Entry is via a 40-minute guided tour, which run every 45 minutes. Billboards around town advertise the starting times of tours and in which language. To reach the museum, turn left at the end of the line of cafes on the Dapia Harbour terrace.
There’s an impressive statue of Bouboulina on the harbour front opposite the Hotel Possidonion. For more details about Bouboulina, see A Female Force.
The Old Harbour (Palio Limani), which is about a 1.5km stroll from Dapia, is usually filled with a jumble of commercial vessels. A bit further on is Baltiza, a sheltered inlet crammed with all types of craft, from half-built caïques to working fishing boats, minor-league private cruisers and yachts.
Sleeping
Spetses has a decent mix of sleeping options and most places offer discounts outside August.
Klimis Hotel ( 22980 72334; klimishotel@hol.gr; s/d/tr €40/65/80; ) Serviceable rooms at this standard waterfront hotel are as cheap as you’ll get in Spetses. The ground floor sports a cafe-bar and patisserie.
Hotel Kamelia ( 6939095513; s/d €50/55; Apr-Sep; ) These fresh, airy rooms are good value. The hotel is tucked away from the busy seafront. Head along the lane to the right of the kiosk in Plateia Agiou Mama for 100m, then bear right before a little bridge. In another 100m or so, go right along a narrow lane to a quiet square, where the Kamelia lies drenched in bougainvillea.
Villa Christina Hotel ( 22980 72218; www.villachristinahotel.com; s/d/tr incl breakfast €50/70/85; ) Located about 200m uphill on the main road inland from the harbour, these well-kept rooms are tucked away from the worst traffic noise. There’s a lovely garden area.
Villa Marina ( 22980 72646; www.villamarinaspetses.com; off Plateia Agiou Mama; s/d €60/75; ) Under new ownership, this handy hotel was being refurbished at the time of writing. It’s just to the right of Plateia Agiou Mama. All rooms have refrigerators and there is a well-equipped communal kitchen downstairs.
Kastro ( 22980 75319; www.kastro-margarita.com; s/d/tr/apt incl breakfast €90/100/120/200; ) These studios and apartments are in a choice position close to the centre, yet within a private and quiet complex. Decor and furnishings combine traditional style with modern amenities and there are attractive public areas. There are discounts in low season. Head west along the harbour front for several hundred metres and Kastro is along a short lane to the left.
Nissia ( 22980 75000; www.nissia.gr; studio incl breakfast €270-365; Apr-Oct; ) Nissia is an exclusive oasis of peace and quiet in stylish surroundings. Studios are arranged around a spacious courtyard, complete with swimming pool and soothing greenery. It’s about 300m northwest of Dapia Harbour. The hotel has a restaurant (mains €8 to €26).
Eating
Cockatoo ( 22980 74085; mains €1.50-7; noon-midnight) At this budget base, you can get a souvlaki for €2, a Greek salad for €5 or a takeaway chicken for €12. Head left from the top of Plateia Limenarhiou, and then right.
Taverna O Lazaros ( 22980 72600; mains €5-9) A hike of about 400m up Main St from the harbour sharpens your appetite